Monthly Archives: March 2016

Boys Surfing Day!

Screen Shot 2016-03-31 at 3.14.51 PM
had a blast with the kids today. their first time ever surfing and it happened to be right here in beautiful hawaii! once they hit the water, they were so excited!
Screen Shot 2016-03-31 at 3.15.52 PM
i always want to capture the first ride no matter what. this was Yutaro-kun’s first ever wave. he was so excited when he stood up! just look at his face!
Screen Shot 2016-03-31 at 3.17.11 PM
and this is Masataka-kun’s first ever wave. look at his face too! haha. just 2 kids having a great first time experience.
Screen Shot 2016-03-31 at 3.22.42 PM
then after a few adjustments, the kids were surfing perfectly. better form, and much more confidence. if this photo had sound, you would hear me yelling from the side!!! haha.
Screen Shot 2016-03-31 at 3.20.51 PM
so cute! haha.
Screen Shot 2016-03-31 at 3.19.23 PM
the diamond head shot starring Masataka-kun!
Screen Shot 2016-03-31 at 3.21.03 PM
19 year old and 14 year old brothers. the biggest smiles today and we all loved the experience!
Screen Shot 2016-03-31 at 3.22.50 PM
then went to check out diamond head. totally perfect again. south/west swell solid overhead and super good! the endless summer of 2015 continues.
IMG_7985
then the boys wanted to eat locomoco’s. had fun laughing with the 2 boys and their cool father Furuta-san. want to thank you all for the wonderful morning! hope you enjoy the rest of your first trip in hawaii!
IMG_7989
and had to stop by for a shave ice before the kids went back to their hotel for an afternoon nap.
Screen Shot 2016-03-31 at 3.23.45 PM
then i went straight to pick up Akane-san and we went straight back out to the ocean. yes, the winds were super bad and not a safe day to take a boat out into the wild ocean. BUT, we got ready in the harbor, sped out into the wild sea, threw over the anchor, and dove in the peaceful underwater world. it was once again, so dam amazing!
tomorrow have an early big day so better get to sleep. good night.

Welcome to El Salvador: One death per hour

Screen Shot 2016-03-30 at 2.03.13 PM
El Salvador is considered the most dangerous country in the world.
d4304bc00e880dc93feed5aef3b2f673
there is one death per hour. and 99% of the deaths are unsolved.
Untitled2-800x500_c
the police are in full force trying to crack down, but it’s a long road ahead.
IMG_4568-640x480
i knew it was a dangerous country before i traveled there. but you have to have faith in people. i did as i jumped into this taxi cab from the airport not knowing where the heck i was going. he could have taken me to the mountains if he wanted to and i would have no idea. luckily, we arrived at my destination 1 hour later.
IMG_4598-640x640
and you are not supposed to walk down dark streets late at night. but if don’t, how am i supposed to eat dinner? but to be honest, i was pretty dam scared walking alone at night. it was pretty dark and everyone seemed to be carrying guns. big machine guns to be exact.
IMG_4701-640x480
and you are not supposed to go dawn patrol early in the morning because all the bad people are still out. don’t tell this to me and my amigos.
IMG_0388-640x427
pulling up early in the morning and scoring perfect waves is the reward. when ever the risks are high, the rewards are even higher. that’s the kind of life i love.
somebody asked me after this trip if i would go there again? i told them “no, i’m going to the second dangerous country next, Guatemala. and that was even scarier!

March 30, 2016 Hawaii Surf Report

Cheese!!!
Good morning 6am.
North shore 18′ and cleaning up.
South shore chest high and clean. Diamond Head best.
No wind so perfect morning conditions, onshore in the afternoon.
Sunny and warm.
Surf/Dive.
Have a wonderful day!