had a blast with the kids today. their first time ever surfing and it happened to be right here in beautiful hawaii! once they hit the water, they were so excited!
i always want to capture the first ride no matter what. this was Yutaro-kun’s first ever wave. he was so excited when he stood up! just look at his face!
and this is Masataka-kun’s first ever wave. look at his face too! haha. just 2 kids having a great first time experience.
then after a few adjustments, the kids were surfing perfectly. better form, and much more confidence. if this photo had sound, you would hear me yelling from the side!!! haha.
so cute! haha.
the diamond head shot starring Masataka-kun!
19 year old and 14 year old brothers. the biggest smiles today and we all loved the experience!
then went to check out diamond head. totally perfect again. south/west swell solid overhead and super good! the endless summer of 2015 continues.
then the boys wanted to eat locomoco’s. had fun laughing with the 2 boys and their cool father Furuta-san. want to thank you all for the wonderful morning! hope you enjoy the rest of your first trip in hawaii!
and had to stop by for a shave ice before the kids went back to their hotel for an afternoon nap.
then i went straight to pick up Akane-san and we went straight back out to the ocean. yes, the winds were super bad and not a safe day to take a boat out into the wild ocean. BUT, we got ready in the harbor, sped out into the wild sea, threw over the anchor, and dove in the peaceful underwater world. it was once again, so dam amazing!
tomorrow have an early big day so better get to sleep. good night.
Monthly Archives: March 2016
Boys Surfing Day!
Welcome to El Salvador: One death per hour
El Salvador is considered the most dangerous country in the world.
there is one death per hour. and 99% of the deaths are unsolved.
the police are in full force trying to crack down, but it’s a long road ahead.
i knew it was a dangerous country before i traveled there. but you have to have faith in people. i did as i jumped into this taxi cab from the airport not knowing where the heck i was going. he could have taken me to the mountains if he wanted to and i would have no idea. luckily, we arrived at my destination 1 hour later.
and you are not supposed to walk down dark streets late at night. but if don’t, how am i supposed to eat dinner? but to be honest, i was pretty dam scared walking alone at night. it was pretty dark and everyone seemed to be carrying guns. big machine guns to be exact.
and you are not supposed to go dawn patrol early in the morning because all the bad people are still out. don’t tell this to me and my amigos.
pulling up early in the morning and scoring perfect waves is the reward. when ever the risks are high, the rewards are even higher. that’s the kind of life i love.
somebody asked me after this trip if i would go there again? i told them “no, i’m going to the second dangerous country next, Guatemala. and that was even scarier!