passed by downtown today and always in awe when i see this painting on the side of the building. the biggest barrel in the world!
i can stare at this all day long and dream about pulling into one of these someday. and no, i wouldn’t be scared because high risk, high return. that’s my life!
went out for another afternoon session today. always so peaceful and so beautiful on the ocean.
had a great surf, talk, and time with Matchi. my friend since 1992. also one of the first surfers i met in japan. we had some great memories traveling this world over the past 23 years. never forget!
another amazing sunset!
red stripe and poke. jamaica and hawaii. a really great combo after a really great off shore surf session. cheers!
even when the sun sets, the sky turns all different colors. tonights was deep purple.
came in at night again. always so beautiful and always the best way to end a wonderful day.
it’s the 3rd time i came back to the harbor and my slippers were gone! no, nobody stole it. actually, the wind stole it. it blew it off the dock and gone with the wind. went home barefoot.
thank you Matchi for the awesome evening session time. and thank you for the cool fins!
Jimmy Hendrix! oh yeah! can’t wait to surf you!
