Almost Forgotten: July Japan

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another trip, another forgotten post? time is just flying so i don’t even remember what was what and when was when. these are photos from my July trip to japan chasing typhoon 12. seems like years ago!!!
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the first good day of the year and i was stoked to be a part of it. check out how perfect the waves were!
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had a super good time surfing with Matchi everyday. we’ve been chasing typhoons for 23 years so it’s just another wave produced by another typhoon. nice bottom turn Matchi!
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if there were another place i’d want to live in besides hawaii and japan, it would have to be here inside the tube. i can’t get enough.
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surfing secret local spots with absolutely no tourists. opps, except me. it took me 23 years to figure it out and i’m still learning. but the most important thing in surfing heavy localized spots in the world comes down to two words, RESPECT LOCALS.
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imagine pulling up to this spot with nobody out? i seriously had to look around and see if someone was playing a joke on us or something. it was no joke as Matchi and i were exchanging barrels after barrels. i still can’t believe how lucky we were.
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and always stoked to surf with my beautiful friend in japan. what a small wonderful world we live in!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide