super stoked to get the 2nd to the last seat on a flight last night. didn’t really care if i got on or not but once the plane took off, i was happy to be heading home. i recline my seat, close my eyes, and was sleeping in 2 seconds.
i wake up looking out the window and see swells. south swell? nice small and very clean one!
i get home, drink my kombucha, grab my surfboard, and head out to the ocean. i was super stoked and so excited to surf again! so happy!
enjoying every single ride. the waves were super nice and perfect! talked story to friends, laughed, and enjoyed every moment today.
i took along my surf partner. she got some of the best waves of the day! perfect long rights! same thing tomorrow! can’t wait!
then drove over to the other side of the island to Kalaheo High School to watch some high school volleyball tonight. ACE! awesome game girls!
good night!
