it was almost dark yesterday evening when i felt like doing something different. so i jumped in the truck and headed out to the wild side of the island. something that would wake me up right when i get into the water. and if you aren’t woken up by now, you might smash your head against the rocks.
looked at this beautiful spot too but didn’t want to surf with people. wanted to surf into the dark alone.
jumping in the ocean after a long day is so refreshing. cleans out the body, mind, and soul.
i grew up surfing here so it’s not that dangerous to me. yes, hundreds of people have died here before, people go missing, and thousands of injuries. but here, i feel like a kid again surfing my local spot. riding the waves brings back all the great childhood memories.
if you make one small misjudgment, you might have to get your body scraped off the sharp rocks. it happens to people all the time. this is the very reason i refuse to take anyone surfing here. not a place to take risks. it’s just way too dangerous for that.
this is the best way to end a long perfect day. total satisfaction!
