been surfing with the sunrise for a lot of mornings this week. there’s no where else i’d rather be to start off my beautiful day, just like today!
before we paddled out, i told Oshima-san “when you surf today, imagine how much fun Ojiro-kun had surfing yesterday. put that picture in your mind and enjoy your last day of surfing.” from the first wave, it was happy surfing!
Oshima-san surfing super good! i was so stoked to see him enjoying every ride.
then the set of the day came. i yelled “GO!” and this turned out to be the best ride of the day! head high and perfect all the way!
can’t beat this smile. this is what you call “pure stoke!” same smile Ojiro-kun had yesterday. haha. thank you Oshima-san for the wonderful days of surfing. hope you had a relaxing flight back to japan after our surf. take care and see you again!
gosh, can you believe i was in the water from 7am to 12pm again? can’t complain when you’re enjoying it with such cool people. this is Sheana the dawn patroller!
after Saori-san and i surfed mid-morning, we went for a snorkel in the afternoon.
this girl is going to be a surfer/amasan. i think she’s hooked! haha.
been craving a nice steak so i went shopping to get a nice steak.
fried it up and it was freaking amazing!
also been craving some japanese ramen, so i cooked some japanese ramen.
i still can’t believe how smart the japanese package their food. it’s so simple, and so perfect.
i left my house at 6:30am and got home at 5:30pm. it was a long day of fun. i’m so tired now. going out to eat some sushi, come home to sleep, and do the same thing tomorrow. life is good. have a beautiful evening!
