Minami-chan is one of the few young surfers that i don’t have that much advise for. she can surf super good, she has amazing wave knowledge, she doesn’t fall, and she is totally focused. so the only thing i said to her before she paddled out to Diamond Head yesterday evening was “go out there, paddle to every peak, and catch every wave possible. then you will figure out that spot pretty easily.”
i’m sitting in the inside waiting for a wave. then 2 girls paddle out and sit right in the inside of me. they start talking to each other and don’t have a clue about surfing mannerism. a wave comes, i paddle for it, the girls sandwich me, and i fall. i hope i’m not a beginner for too much longer.
so i will keep practicing and focusing until i can wait on the outside and graduate from the inside.
as the sun started to set, i was watching Minami-chan get some amazing rides. if i had my telephoto lens, i would have gotten a cover shot for sure.
Hayato getting good on the foil. super fast learner and i’m sure he will be ripping it up in Okinawa very soon.
i foiled Bowls this morning for 3 hours. came in and was going to eat and take a nap. checked my voicemail and Tony and Micah leave separate messages. both saying that i should drop everything i had planned and go foil with them. so i dropped everything, grabbed a sandwich, and headed on the 1 hour drive.
pulled up and the waves were amazing! seen some of the boys out there ripping it up. i saw John John Florence ride a 2 minute long wave doing 50 turns. then more of the boys started pulling up and it was a full on pro surfer session.
John Amundson and Micah Moniz. both amazing foilers and both giving me much needed advise.
i rode a 1 minute 30 second wave with Micah all the way from the outside to the beach. ended up catching 8 more and i was dead tired. it was a great learning experience for me as i watched every single detail and applied it to my own foil. now i feel like i went up a level and ready for bigger and better things. can’t wait!