omg, today was forecasted to be a super sunny beautiful day. BUT, when i woke up, it was storming! raining so hard. then it continued all day long. where did this storm come from? it felt like winter!
so i check the waves at 7am. junky. but i decided to go surf anyway. i paddle out at 9:30 and the rain stops, and the wind stops too. the conditions became perfect!!! we scored perfect waves for 45 minutes with nobody out! then the storm came back and so did the wind. what great timing!

look at bowls this evening. strong south/west winds and storming!

north shore was storming too! i was planning to dive on monday and tuesday. i cancelled monday, but i’m going for sure on tuesday. i hope the water isn’t too dirty.

and last, i found my art sketch book from ART 101 from my freshman year in college. that was from 24 years ago. i don’t remember drawing this sketch of myself. did i really do it? and did i really look like that? gosh, i look like a murderer from a police suspect sketch. haha.

All day rain!!!

not only were the waves good on the south shore yesterday, look at pipeline!!!! this is yesterday evening and the conditions couldn’t have been any better. is it really May? amazing north shore late season!

wanted to thank Naohiro and family for sending the email and photos from wakayama. Happy Boys day to you all too! see you soon.

and to the next Yamari generation, peace!
weird weather continues all week. no wind and hot humid weather means sun, clouds, rain, thunder, and sweat. i love it all!