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\n\u6bce\u671d\u3001\u50d5\u306f\u88cf\u5ead\u306e\u30d3\u30fc\u30c1\u306b\u5ea7\u3063\u3066\u305a\u3063\u3068\u6ce2\u3092\u898b\u3066\u3044\u305f\u3053\u3068\u3092\u4eca\u3067\u3082\u5fd8\u308c\u306a\u3044\u3002\u3053\u308c\u309220\u5e74\u9593\u3001\u51ac\u306e\u9593\u6bce\u65e5\u3057\u3066\u3044\u305f\u3002\u6642\u306b\u6ce2\u304c\u3044\u3044\u65e5\u3001\u6642\u306b\u306f\u60aa\u3044\u65e5\u3002
\n\u3042\u308b\u65e5\u307e\u305f\u3044\u3064\u3082\u306e\u3088\u3046\u306b\u671d\u30d3\u30fc\u30c1\u306b\u5ea7\u3063\u3066\u6ce2\u3092\u307f\u3066\u3044\u3066\u3001\u305d\u306e\u65e5\u306e\u6ce2\u306f\u306a\u3093\u3060\u304b\u3044\u3064\u3082\u3068\u9055\u3063\u305f\u3002\u6c17\u306b\u306a\u3063\u3066\u3001\u671d\u306e\uff16\u6642\u304b\u3089\u6570\u6642\u9593\u3082\u305d\u3053\u3067\u5f85\u3063\u3066\u3044\u305f\u3002
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\n\u305d\u306e\u5f8c\u5927\u304d\u306a\u30b9\u30c8\u30fc\u30e0\u304c\u304d\u305f\u3002\u30b9\u30c8\u30fc\u30e0\u304c\u904e\u304e\u53bb\u3063\u305f\u5f8c\u3001\u7a7a\u306b\u8679\u304c\u304b\u304b\u308a\u3001\u30b3\u30f3\u30c7\u30a3\u30b7\u30e7\u30f3\u304c\u826f\u304f\u306a\u3063\u305f\u3002\u307b\u3093\u306e\u6570\u5206\u3067\u8352\u308c\u72c2\u3063\u305f\u6d77\u304b\u3089\u3001\u6674\u308c\u3066\u7a4f\u3084\u304b\u306a\u6d77\u306b\u5909\u308f\u3063\u305f\u3002\u305d\u308c\u3092\u898b\u8a08\u3089\u3063\u3066\u3001\u6e96\u5099\u3057\u3066\u3044\u305f7’0 Mike Woo\u3092\u6301\u3063\u3066\u6d77\u306b\u98db\u3073\u8fbc\u3093\u3060\u3002\u307e\u3060\u6ce2\u5f85\u3061\u3057\u3066\u3044\u308b\u4eba\u306f\u307b\u3068\u3093\u3069\u3044\u306a\u3044\u3002\u3044\u3044\u6ce2\u306f\u5168\u90e8\u50d5\u306e\u3060\u3068\u601d\u3063\u305f\u3002\u57fa\u672c\u7684\u306b\u30bb\u30c3\u30c8\u306e\uff12\u672c\u76ee\u304c\u4e00\u756a\u3044\u3044\u6ce2\u3060\u304b\u3089\u3001\u305d\u308c\u3092\u5f85\u3063\u3066\u30c6\u30a4\u30af\u30aa\u30d5\u3001\u305d\u3057\u3066\u30d7\u30eb\u30a4\u30f3\u3002
\n\u6700\u9ad8\u306e\u6ce2\u3060\u3063\u305f\u3002\u3053\u308c\u306f\u8f9b\u62b1\u3057\u3066\u5f85\u3063\u3066\u3044\u305f\u304b\u3089\uff1f\u305d\u308c\u3068\u3082\u904b\uff1f
\n\u3053\u306e\u201dDark Morning”\u304b\u3089”Happy Ending”\u3078\u5909\u308f\u3063\u305f\u6700\u9ad8\u306e1\u65e5\u306e\u3053\u3068\u306f\u4e00\u751f\u5fd8\u308c\u306a\u3044\u3002
\n\u3044\u3044\u6ce2\u3092\u4e57\u308a\u7d42\u3048\u305f\u5f8c\u300140\u4eba\u3082\u306e\u30d7\u30ed\u30b5\u30fc\u30d5\u30a1\u30fc\u9054\u304c\u6d77\u306b\u5165\u3063\u3066\u304d\u305f\u3002\u50d5\u306f\u4e00\u8db3\u65e9\u304b\u3063\u305f\u3088\u3046\u3060\u306d\u3002
\n\uff08\u7ffb\u8a33: Mayumi \uff09
\ni will never forget all the times i was sitting on the beach at Backdoor all morning watching the waves. i use to do that every single day for every single winter for 20 years. somedays good, somedays bad. one particular day, the waves were super bumpy and weird so i was sitting there from 6am waiting for hours and hours. i was getting hungry and almost went home like most of my friends. back then there were no surf cams so if you had to be really patient, and very lucky to get magical Backdoor days. anyway, a big storm came, then a rainbow, then the conditions cleaned up. in a matter of minutes, the waves went from dark and stormy, to sunny and epic. i grabbed my 7’0 Mike Woo that was sitting on the side of me, and paddled out to an empty lineup. there were only a couple foreign pro surfers and a bodyboarder out so i knew if a set came in, that was mine. a couple minutes later, i see perfect lines on the horizon. i let the first one go because usually the 2nd one is bigger and better. i see the 2nd one coming in at the perfect direction. i take off, pull in, and here it is! you won’t find a more beautiful barrel like this in the world. patient? lucky? i’ll never forget this long dark morning with the very happy ending. after this wave, 40 pro surfers paddled out, but it was too late. this wave was the gem of the day…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"