Taking off with the Rising Sun…

Good morning 4:20am.
North shore huge! 15-18′ and dangerous.
Ala Moana chest high and clean.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Trade winds back at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Day 21 of 2022:  i looked everywhere this morning and ended up here.  not a bad choice at all!  clean perfect peaks…

this man is flying!  my friends keep telling me that Daisuke-san is learning so fast.  pure dedication!

it’s feeling like Summer right now.  lots of waves in town and very very warm.  so far there were 21 days in this new year and i never missed a day in the ocean yet.  and i don’t plan to…

paddling in after a successful session is very rewarding.  and very tiring too.  this is the best work out in the world!

thanks to this pandemic, my life has slowed down a lot.  and i intend to keep it that way.  i can enjoy the moments longer, and i can take Mayuki out a lot more than before.  that being said, i realized how busy i was these past 20 years.  it literally flew by.  now the clock is ticking slower than ever and instead of enjoying every minute, i’m enjoying every second.  

and i have much more time to take care of my baby.  she’s going to be 10 years old but she’s still looking like a young beautiful thing. 

i’ve had some massive wipeouts in the smallest waves.  it’s pretty fun.

there is absolutely no South swell.  the swells breaking on the South shore is wrapping around from the North/West direction.  sometimes it comes, sometimes it doesn’t.  this one came 2 days late so the surf report said “FLAT” in town.  yesterday was not “FLAT.”  yesterday was head high and perfect.  well, that’s if you know where to look.  we found this perfect point right that goes forever!  only a couple guys and girls sharing the moment.  This is Surfing!