{"id":103645,"date":"2019-07-26T05:24:12","date_gmt":"2019-07-25T20:24:12","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=103645"},"modified":"2019-07-26T05:24:12","modified_gmt":"2019-07-25T20:24:12","slug":"keep-calm-and-dont-panic","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=103645","title":{"rendered":"Keep Calm and Don’t Panic…"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"\u00a0i’ve been teaching surfing for a very long time. \u00a0and the most common error i notice for advanced surfers is weight distribution. \u00a0a lot of surfers put too much weight on their front foot. \u00a0if you do that, you will push the front of your surfboard down and make it stop. \u00a0it’s like pushing on the brake. \u00a0the correct way it to push off your back foot like this. \u00a0then the board will speed up, throw spray, and drive from turn into turn. \u00a0your surfboard is designed to work this way so go out and try it. \u00a0and i’m sure you’ll love it. \u00a0\u00a0\"\"\u00a0and i’m sure you’ll love this too. \u00a0i ate 2 scoops, one vanilla and one Kona coffee. \u00a0yeah, i think i like coffee again! \u00a0\"\"\u00a0then went with Carter to try out a new restaurant. \u00a0omg, this raw oyster was amazing! \u00a0so creamy!\u00a0\"\"\u00a0then the Chef was my surfer friend so he made us some Oyster Rockefeller. \u00a0amazing…\"\"\u00a0then we ordered the bone marrow bibimbap. \u00a0i’ve never tried anything like this before. \u00a0\"\"\u00a0and it turned out to be the best bibimbap and the best happy hour i had in a long time!\u00a0\"\"\u00a0exactly 7 months ago today, this local surfer almost died in the water. \u00a0he would surf Bowls every single day and when i went to visit him in the Emergency Room that day, the first thing he asked me was “do you think i will be able to surf again?” \u00a0i told him “of course you will!” \u00a0but honestly, i wasn’t to sure. \u00a0so just seeing him back in the water every day where he left off is like a miracle. \u00a0 i’m so happy to see this man back loving his second chance at life. \u00a0look how beautiful this wave is!\"\"\u00a0you inspire me dude. \u00a0welcome back to the big days of surfing! \u00a0\"\"i was snorkeling off Waikiki with Asayama-san when this Tiger shark pulled up. \u00a0Asayama-san stayed calm outside, but i’m sure he was freaking out inside. \u00a0i try to teach to everyone including kids, that you cannot panic in the ocean. \u00a0 so when the 37 year old diver died yesterday at Haleiwa after panicking when he saw a shark, i sent the news to a few of my friends. \u00a0it’s a very sad story, but also so real. \u00a0no matter what happens in the ocean, you have to keep calm. \u00a0it could be a life or death decision for you…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u00a0i’ve been teaching surfing for a very long time. \u00a0and the most common error i notice for advanced surfers is weight distribution. \u00a0a lot of surfers put too much weight on their front foot. \u00a0if you do that, you will push the front of your surfboard down and make it stop. \u00a0it’s like pushing on […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-103645","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirby-blogs"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/103645","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=103645"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/103645\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=103645"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=103645"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=103645"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}