{"id":107420,"date":"2019-11-26T05:37:44","date_gmt":"2019-11-25T20:37:44","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=107420"},"modified":"2019-11-26T05:37:44","modified_gmt":"2019-11-25T20:37:44","slug":"the-ultimate-feeling-by-kenji-sahara","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=107420","title":{"rendered":"The Ultimate Feeling: by Kenji Sahara"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"\u00a0if you’re a surfer, the ultimate dream is to get barreled. \u00a0if you think a cutback, off the lip, or floater feels good, you would pee in your pants when you feel how good a barrel is. \u00a0and once you get barreled, you will be addicted for life. \u00a0i got my first barrel at 12 years old and that’s all i live for as a surfer. \u00a0let me take you through one. \u00a0first, you have to choose the perfect wave. \u00a0this one is at Backdoor. \u00a0the take off is very important. \u00a0you have to position yourself in the right place so you can glide right into the wave. \u00a0next, you have to fully commit. \u00a0you either take the chance and pull into the barrel, or you go straight or around it. \u00a0remember that a barrel is high risk, so very high return. \u00a0so commitment is everything…\"\"once you’re in the barrel, just keep calm and keep looking at the exit. \u00a0the deeper you are, the smaller the exit is. \u00a0so just keep calm and look for the light at the end of the tunnel. \u00a0\"\"\u00a0\u00a0the calmer you are, the more you will feel the energy of the ocean. \u00a0so keep your calm face and enjoy the ride. \u00a0\"\"\u00a0then when you make it out, nothing in the world can beat that feeling. \u00a0a bad day will turn good, a negative mind will turn positive, and you will never forget that feeling and will want more and more. \u00a0so to all my students i teach, this is the goal. \u00a0set your mind to it and you will enter the world only a few will experience. \u00a0and when you do, i’ll buy you a drink and we can make a toast to a better life ahead…<\/p>\n

thank you Kenji Sahara for taking these photos years back on the North Shore. \u00a0i just relived this exact feeling and i’m feeling pretty dam good right now! \u00a0cheers bro!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u00a0if you’re a surfer, the ultimate dream is to get barreled. \u00a0if you think a cutback, off the lip, or floater feels good, you would pee in your pants when you feel how good a barrel is. \u00a0and once you get barreled, you will be addicted for life. \u00a0i got my first barrel at 12 […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-107420","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirby-blogs"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/107420","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=107420"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/107420\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=107420"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=107420"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=107420"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}