{"id":115769,"date":"2021-01-05T05:40:42","date_gmt":"2021-01-04T20:40:42","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=115769"},"modified":"2021-01-04T15:07:47","modified_gmt":"2021-01-04T06:07:47","slug":"high-surf-warning-japan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=115769","title":{"rendered":"High Surf Warning @ Japan"},"content":{"rendered":"

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about 10 years ago, i flew to Japan to chase a Super Typhoon. \u00a0i ended up in Shikoku at this very localized secret spot. \u00a0the waves were 8-12′ Hawaiian scale. \u00a0i rode a 7’6 and wish i had a longer one. \u00a0paddling in and out was a bit tricky because you had to get past this monster shore break. \u00a0and to top that off, there are no lifeguards or rescue so if you get into a dangerous situation, only you can save yourself. \u00a0so yeah, i guess you can call it high risk surfing. \u00a0timing is of the essence. \u00a0if you time it right, you will flow in and out like a seal. \u00a0but if you time it wrong, you could have one of these waves breaking on your head and everything could go wrong. \u00a0break your board or leash and you’re dead. \u00a0when i surf big waves, i block a lot of things out. \u00a0i don’t think about risk or fear because if i do, i know things will go wrong. \u00a0i actually think the opposite so i’m pretty calm. \u00a0i’m the “if you don’t go, you won’t know” kind of guy so i just go. \u00a0but after seeing this photo, i wouldn’t have paddled out if i knew it was that big. \u00a0haha…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

about 10 years ago, i flew to Japan to chase a Super Typhoon. \u00a0i ended up in Shikoku at this very localized secret spot. \u00a0the waves were 8-12′ Hawaiian scale. \u00a0i rode a 7’6 and wish i had a longer one. \u00a0paddling in and out was a bit tricky because you had to get past […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-115769","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirbyblog"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/115769","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=115769"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/115769\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":115771,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/115769\/revisions\/115771"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=115769"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=115769"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=115769"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}