{"id":118376,"date":"2021-05-29T05:58:21","date_gmt":"2021-05-28T20:58:21","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=118376"},"modified":"2021-05-28T11:15:49","modified_gmt":"2021-05-28T02:15:49","slug":"the-danger-zone","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=118376","title":{"rendered":"The Danger Zone"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-118377\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/20071118032853.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"425\" srcset=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/20071118032853.jpg 640w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/20071118032853-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/20071118032853-632x420.jpg 632w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>for 25 years, i would drive out to the North Shore every single day. \u00a0and when Backdoor got big and good like this, i&#8217;d be out no matter what. \u00a0that was my passion. \u00a0what you don&#8217;t see in this photos are the 50 hungry and aggressive surfers behind this wave. \u00a0yes, you have to hassle, position yourself, and even fight for a wave like this. \u00a0my mindset was &#8220;don&#8217;t be nice, just stand your ground and when it&#8217;s time, you just go.&#8221; \u00a0it was my job everyday to get the best wave and best photo possible. \u00a0when i think about it now, i pretty much put my life on the line for all those years because that wave has killed many good surfers. \u00a0so i&#8217;m very thankful for walking away with just cuts, bruises, broken boards, and only two emergency room visits. \u00a0 lucky me&#8230;<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-118378\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_3206.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2021\" height=\"1125\" srcset=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_3206.jpg 2021w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_3206-300x167.jpg 300w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_3206-1024x570.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_3206-768x428.jpg 768w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_3206-1536x855.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_3206-696x387.jpg 696w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_3206-1068x595.jpg 1068w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_3206-1920x1069.jpg 1920w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/IMG_3206-755x420.jpg 755w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2021px) 100vw, 2021px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>now my life is way different. \u00a0much more calm, much more relaxing, and much more simple. \u00a0i don&#8217;t miss fighting for waves on the North Shore anymore. \u00a0i don&#8217;t miss the drive in traffic. \u00a0and i don&#8217;t miss the competitiveness. \u00a0i like it plain and simple just like this&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>for 25 years, i would drive out to the North Shore every single day. \u00a0and when Backdoor got big and good like this, i&#8217;d be out no matter what. \u00a0that was my passion. \u00a0what you don&#8217;t see in this photos are the 50 hungry and aggressive surfers behind this wave. \u00a0yes, you have to hassle, [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-118376","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirbyblog"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/118376","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=118376"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/118376\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":118379,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/118376\/revisions\/118379"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=118376"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=118376"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=118376"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}