{"id":119357,"date":"2021-07-24T05:45:50","date_gmt":"2021-07-23T20:45:50","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=119357"},"modified":"2021-07-23T14:58:37","modified_gmt":"2021-07-23T05:58:37","slug":"only-a-surfer-knows","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=119357","title":{"rendered":"Only a Surfer Knows&#8230;"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-119358\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/PR.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1536\" height=\"1024\" srcset=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/PR.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/PR-300x200.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/PR-1024x683.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/PR-768x512.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/PR-696x464.jpeg 696w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/PR-1068x712.jpeg 1068w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/PR-630x420.jpeg 630w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1536px) 100vw, 1536px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>last week, this Spanish guy went on a surf trip to surf Puerto Escondido in Mexico. \u00a0this was his first wave there and this also was his last wave of his life. \u00a0he wiped out and drowned on this wave. \u00a0hearing this news gave me chicken skin because i almost drowned there too. \u00a0i still remember telling myself when i got held down for 2 consecutive waves &#8220;keep calm, and if i die, i&#8217;m doing what i love.&#8221; \u00a0i&#8217;ll never forget that. \u00a0so that&#8217;s what i feel about people who die doing what they love. \u00a0you can&#8217;t ask for a better exit than that. \u00a0and only a surfer will understand&#8230;<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-119362\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/IMG_5315.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/IMG_5315.jpg 640w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/IMG_5315-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/IMG_5315-560x420.jpg 560w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/IMG_5315-80x60.jpg 80w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/IMG_5315-265x198.jpg 265w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>every so often, a random photo will pop up on my iPhone. \u00a0this one made me smile. \u00a0made me smile because of Tony&#8217;s life of making people happy with his homemade lilikoi butter. \u00a0he&#8217;s no longer here but his aloha will live in our lives forever. \u00a0and also seeing Asayamasan made me smile. \u00a0he&#8217;s living the healthy life in Japan going surfing, gardening, yoga, ukulele, and family time. \u00a0that&#8217;s so wonderful! \u00a0<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-119361\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/IMG_5006.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"374\" srcset=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/IMG_5006.jpg 640w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/IMG_5006-300x175.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>i&#8217;ve been seeing dolphins almost everyday. \u00a0and it makes me feel so lucky&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>last week, this Spanish guy went on a surf trip to surf Puerto Escondido in Mexico. \u00a0this was his first wave there and this also was his last wave of his life. \u00a0he wiped out and drowned on this wave. \u00a0hearing this news gave me chicken skin because i almost drowned there too. \u00a0i still [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-119357","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirbyblog"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/119357","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=119357"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/119357\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":119364,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/119357\/revisions\/119364"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=119357"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=119357"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=119357"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}