{"id":120489,"date":"2021-11-03T05:09:41","date_gmt":"2021-11-02T20:09:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=120489"},"modified":"2021-11-02T13:24:06","modified_gmt":"2021-11-02T04:24:06","slug":"first-swell-first-session","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=120489","title":{"rendered":"First Swell, First Session"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-94101\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirby\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/11\/014-800x558.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"558\" \/><\/p>\n<p>30 years ago, there was no internet and no cel phones. \u00a0the only way to get your surf forecast was from experienced surfers. \u00a0Tokura-san use to chase typhoon swells in Japan forever so he knew when and where will be good. \u00a0so i&#8217;d be here in Hawaii and get a phone call. \u00a0he said &#8220;Kirby, typhoons coming in 5 days, get a ticket, see you soon.&#8221; \u00a0i&#8217;d call my travel agent, get the next flight to Japan, and Tokura-san would pick me up from the airport. \u00a0then we&#8217;d drive and drive for hours. \u00a0sometimes driving for 14 hours straight into the path of super typhoons. \u00a0we would surf the swell before the typhoon hits, then take cover indoors until the 100mph winds stop and the typhoon passes. \u00a0 then we&#8217;d go straight back out and get the leftover back swells. \u00a0this was the First Swell, First Session of Typhoon 1 on the island of Shikoku. \u00a0every wave would be perfect, and every wave would barrel. \u00a0then when the typhoon would pass, we&#8217;d look for and start chasing Typhoon 2. \u00a0that went on for over 20 wonderful years. \u00a0want to thank Tokura-san for the amazing journeys&#8230;<\/p>\n<p>photo by Yoshiro Nakayama<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>30 years ago, there was no internet and no cel phones. \u00a0the only way to get your surf forecast was from experienced surfers. \u00a0Tokura-san use to chase typhoon swells in Japan forever so he knew when and where will be good. \u00a0so i&#8217;d be here in Hawaii and get a phone call. \u00a0he said &#8220;Kirby, [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-120489","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirbyblog"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/120489","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=120489"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/120489\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":120491,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/120489\/revisions\/120491"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=120489"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=120489"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=120489"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}