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20 years ago, i would paddle out to big 2nd reef Pipeline and sit right on the inside ledge. \u00a0it’s a very dangerous place to wait because 15′ Pipeline sets will break on your head. \u00a0i would take that risk for one reason and one reason only. \u00a0i wanted to ride the biggest Backdoor barrel out there. \u00a0 when it’s that big, you have to be patient because there is only one or two perfect ones all morning long. \u00a0and sometimes none at all. \u00a0i would wait for hours and get smashed on the head by 15′ waves but i knew if i was lucky enough, i could get the wave of the day. \u00a0on this day, i saw huge waves breaking outside on the third reef at Pipeline. \u00a0everybody was paddling their hardest to the channel to avoid it. \u00a0if you do that, you won’t be in position so you have to be kind of crazy patient and wait in the impact zone. \u00a0i saw this wave trying to break on the second reef and it backed off and started to grow tall and wide right before it hit the ledge. \u00a0i turned around and paddled my hardest. \u00a0i knew if i missed it, the 3 bigger waves behind would destroy me. \u00a0so i’d rather die trying. \u00a0after i made the drop and did my bottom turn, i saw the whole ocean starting to dump over my head. \u00a0i was deep and the barrel then it spit me out. \u00a0 for the next 10 years, i searched and searched for something bigger, then i realized that that was maximum Backdoor. \u00a0it don’t get bigger than that. \u00a0i’ll never forget that special day…<\/p>\n
thank you Kimoro Kondo for capturing my life changing moment. \u00a0 i remember you were the only photographer shooting from Off The Wall that day. \u00a0i guess you knew too that this gem was coming. \u00a0haha…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
20 years ago, i would paddle out to big 2nd reef Pipeline and sit right on the inside ledge. \u00a0it’s a very dangerous place to wait because 15′ Pipeline sets will break on your head. \u00a0i would take that risk for one reason and one reason only. \u00a0i wanted to ride the biggest Backdoor barrel […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-121232","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirbyblog"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/121232","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=121232"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/121232\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":121233,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/121232\/revisions\/121233"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=121232"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=121232"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=121232"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}