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i get asked a lot about wave heights. \u00a0in Japan, they scale the size of the wave using body parts. \u00a0a small day would be knee to waist, a medium day would be head high, and a large day would be double overhead. \u00a0in California they scale from the front. \u00a0so waist high would be 3′ and head high would be 6′. \u00a0but in Hawaii, old school surfers like myself scale from the back of the wave. \u00a0so a Japanese head high or Californian 6′ wave would be 3′ for us. \u00a0so when the surf report comes out, it could be tricky. \u00a010-14′ faces on the South shore? \u00a0that’s really 4-6′ for me.<\/p>\n
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this was one of the strongest swells i’ve ever experienced in town. \u00a0there was so much water moving and so much energy in the ocean. \u00a0i’ve had some of the worst wipeout in years. \u00a0this one i took off too deep so it was either have the lip land on my head, or eject. \u00a0i chose to eject. \u00a0i’m just so thankful i didn’t get hurt. \u00a0i saw broken boards, i saw one of my friends almost get held down for 2 consecutive waves, and i saw a lot of fear in many faces out there. \u00a0there was over 300 rescues per day so that tells you how powerful this swell was. \u00a0but i live for days like this. \u00a0and now i can’t wait for the next big one!!!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
i get asked a lot about wave heights. \u00a0in Japan, they scale the size of the wave using body parts. \u00a0a small day would be knee to waist, a medium day would be head high, and a large day would be double overhead. \u00a0in California they scale from the front. \u00a0so waist high would be […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-121964","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","category-kirbyblog"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/121964","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=121964"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/121964\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":121968,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/121964\/revisions\/121968"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=121964"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=121964"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=121964"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}