{"id":122048,"date":"2022-05-17T05:28:11","date_gmt":"2022-05-16T20:28:11","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=122048"},"modified":"2022-05-16T13:43:11","modified_gmt":"2022-05-16T04:43:11","slug":"split-second-decisions","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=122048","title":{"rendered":"Split Second Decisions"},"content":{"rendered":"

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what would you do if you were me? \u00a0well, first of all, this is one of the biggest days ever recorded at HT’s in the Mentawai Islands. \u00a0we were on a boat trip and the waves were very big and extremely dangerous. \u00a0i took out a longer board because the takeoffs were crazy. \u00a0i paddled into this monster and when i did a bottom turn, the whole ocean was dumping from a 100 yards in front of me. \u00a0i know that the safest thing to do is to pull into this barrel and pray. \u00a0but i knew the tide was low, i knew i would have hit the reef, and i knew the closest hospital is 12 hours away by boat. \u00a0 so i chose the other way to survive which was to go straight and pray the wave doesn’t crash on my head. \u00a0well, this wave ended up crashing on my head, broke my board in 3 places, and realigned 15 bones in my body. \u00a0thank goodness i didn’t get hurt. \u00a0so looking back at this wave, i think i made the right decision because i swam to the boat, grabbed another surfboard, and paddled back out to the best day ever at HT’s. \u00a0after this, i ended up getting one of the biggest, longest, and best barrels of my entire life. \u00a0this was 13 years ago and i’ve never seen photos or videos of HT’s like this ever since. \u00a0it was one of those swells of a lifetime…<\/p>\n

the only thing i regret was if i had pulled into the barrel, i would have gotten a cover shot for sure. \u00a0but i don’t have regrets so i’ll just take it on the head. \u00a0haha…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

what would you do if you were me? \u00a0well, first of all, this is one of the biggest days ever recorded at HT’s in the Mentawai Islands. \u00a0we were on a boat trip and the waves were very big and extremely dangerous. \u00a0i took out a longer board because the takeoffs were crazy. \u00a0i paddled […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-122048","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirbyblog"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/122048","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=122048"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/122048\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":122049,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/122048\/revisions\/122049"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=122048"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=122048"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=122048"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}