{"id":122524,"date":"2022-07-17T12:50:27","date_gmt":"2022-07-17T03:50:27","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=122524"},"modified":"2022-07-17T12:50:27","modified_gmt":"2022-07-17T03:50:27","slug":"2022-historic-south-swell","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=122524","title":{"rendered":"2022 Historic South Swell"},"content":{"rendered":"

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we paddled out to Bowls early this morning and it was BIG! \u00a0i told my student, “ok, just keep calm and when i say go, you GO!!!” \u00a0she paddled for this big set and caught it. \u00a0look how big it is!!!<\/p>\n

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she made the wave! \u00a0look how small she is in the white wash. \u00a0a couple of the local boys said “that was the wave of the day!”<\/p>\n

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she was smiling the whole way in to the beach. \u00a0it was an amazing morning…<\/p>\n

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round 2 would be my turn so i went home to take a half nap. \u00a0one eye sleeping and dreaming, and the other eye wide awake checking Big Rights. \u00a0then i paddled out at the perfect time as the waves got really good. \u00a0this is my friend Kimo Gasper on a perfect one. \u00a0we both have been surfing this spot since the 1980’s. \u00a0it’s crazy how we still love getting barreled after decades of this.<\/p>\n

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the waves were big and barreling. \u00a0just the way i love it. \u00a0i got my best barrel of the year so far! \u00a0so happy! \u00a0when i was paddling in, a surfer that was paddling out said to me “wow, you have the biggest smile on your face.” \u00a0i replied “yeah, i can’t help it. \u00a0i’m very content right now.” haha.<\/p>\n

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this is the surf report for tomorrow. \u00a0i’ve never seen 18-24′ surf on the South shore in my life. \u00a0i can’t wait for the morning!!! \u00a0goodnight from one of the happiest surfers in the world!!!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

we paddled out to Bowls early this morning and it was BIG! \u00a0i told my student, “ok, just keep calm and when i say go, you GO!!!” \u00a0she paddled for this big set and caught it. \u00a0look how big it is!!! she made the wave! \u00a0look how small she is in the white wash. \u00a0a […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-122524","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirbyblog"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/122524","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=122524"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/122524\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":122525,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/122524\/revisions\/122525"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=122524"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=122524"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=122524"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}