{"id":122528,"date":"2022-07-18T14:40:50","date_gmt":"2022-07-18T05:40:50","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=122528"},"modified":"2022-07-18T14:40:50","modified_gmt":"2022-07-18T05:40:50","slug":"code-red-xxxl-big-sunday","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=122528","title":{"rendered":"Code RED XXXL: Big Sunday"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/p>\n

today was definitely the most historic day of waves for the South shore. \u00a0it was so big that i wanted the girls to experience it to the fullest. \u00a0so we paddled out to the biggest and strongest wave in town, which was Bowls. \u00a0i didn’t tell them, but “only the craziest paddle out to Bowls on a day like this.” \u00a0haha.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

do you see those 2 dots outside of the red buoy going over that mountain? \u00a0those are my 2 female students. \u00a0i couldn’t believe that they even made it out because the waves were HUGE and the channel was closing out. \u00a0i would say it was 10′ solid Hawaiian scale so that’s 20′ faces. \u00a0\"\"<\/p>\n

it was big and wild. \u00a0this has to be the biggest day in the history of surfing on the South shore. \u00a0i’ve never seen the ocean this wild and strong. \u00a0there were only 3 bodyboarders when we got out and they were calling the sets 12′, which interprets to 24′ faces! \u00a0it was wild!!!\"\"<\/p>\n

this is the 40 year swell because i’ve been surfing for over 40 years and i’ve never ever seen it this big. \u00a0when the girls came in, they were so happy to have survived this historic day. \u00a0i was happy they survived it too. \u00a0haha. \u00a0\"\"<\/p>\n

i paddled over to Rockpiles and was there all alone. \u00a0i caught one of the biggest waves i’ve ever seen at Rockpiles and will probably ever see. \u00a0it was so big that after i made the drop i had to dive off because the huge wave was about to explode over my head. \u00a0i didn’t know that Rockpiles was ridable when it’s that big, but now i know it is. \u00a0\"\"<\/p>\n

i don’t think i will ever see these kind of big waves with epic conditions again in my lifetime. \u00a0i’m super proud of the girls for surviving today and i’m sure they gained a lot of confidence. \u00a0\"\"<\/p>\n

then it was “my time” this afternoon. \u00a0paddled out to 8′ Big Right’s with the boys. \u00a0we were yelling and screaming the whole session. \u00a0i got some of my biggest Big Right’s barrels ever! \u00a0ended off the day with a beer and some live Hawaiian music with Carter. \u00a0i’m still buzzing…<\/p>\n

better go to sleep because tomorrow is coming soon. \u00a0i’ll be up from 3am searching for the perfect wave. \u00a0goodnight!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

today was definitely the most historic day of waves for the South shore. \u00a0it was so big that i wanted the girls to experience it to the fullest. \u00a0so we paddled out to the biggest and strongest wave in town, which was Bowls. \u00a0i didn’t tell them, but “only the craziest paddle out to Bowls […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-122528","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirbyblog"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/122528","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=122528"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/122528\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":122529,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/122528\/revisions\/122529"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=122528"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=122528"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=122528"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}