![\"\"](\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/slcloud9.jpg\")
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caption: \u00a0“Kirby Fukunaga from Hawaii, on a day when the swell was as big as the spot can handle- \u00a0any bigger, and it mushes through the barrel section off the peak.”<\/p>\n
about 20 years ago, i went to the Philippines right after the 9\/11 terrorist attack. \u00a0the terrorists were at that time training in the jungle, and they were also kidnapping and killing tourists. \u00a0there was a “Level 4 “Do Not Travel” advisory for Americans not to travel to the Philippines. \u00a0my family was against it and thought i was crazy to go there. \u00a0i was hard head and my thinking was not to let the terrorists win. \u00a0and if i didn’t go on that trip, they would have won. \u00a0anyway, every night of those 2 weeks before i went to bed, i made sure i had my passport, cash, and my mask and snorkel right next to my pillow. \u00a0i had a plan to jump into the ocean if anything was to happen. \u00a0i thought my chances of surviving was pretty high. \u00a0sounds crazy when i think about it now. \u00a0haha.<\/p>\n
anyway, that was my first time surfing Cloud 9. \u00a0there was a Super Typhoon spinning right off the coast. \u00a0close enough to send historic waves, but far enough to keep the weather perfect. \u00a0this day was 8-10′ and very dangerous. \u00a0i remember the steep takeoffs breaking over the shallow reef. \u00a0i clearly remember this day because the photographer told me after this wave, “you just got a historic shot. \u00a0that shot will be published in magazines around the world!” \u00a0i was so happy! \u00a0that night i remember drinking 6 San Miguel beers and fell asleep with the biggest smile. \u00a0when i woke up, i realized i forgot to put my passport, cash, and snorkel next to my pillow. \u00a0i could have died a happy man…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
caption: \u00a0“Kirby Fukunaga from Hawaii, on a day when the swell was as big as the spot can handle- \u00a0any bigger, and it mushes through the barrel section off the peak.” about 20 years ago, i went to the Philippines right after the 9\/11 terrorist attack. \u00a0the terrorists were at that time training in the […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-122771","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirbyblog"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/122771","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=122771"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/122771\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":122795,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/122771\/revisions\/122795"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=122771"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=122771"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=122771"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}