![\"\"](\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/IMG_0391-600x450.jpg\")
<\/p>\n<\/p>\n
I woke up this morning and felt like a challenge. \u00a0So I drive up to the North shore thinking it was 4-6′ but when I heard the ocean roaring, it was way bigger than that. \u00a0In the dark, I saw some solid 8′ sets at Pipeline and some 10′ sets at Off The Wall.<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/IMG_0224-600x400.jpeg\")
<\/p>\n
To be honest, I haven’t surfed waves like this in a while so I was wondering if I would even make a drop. \u00a0It was big and there was a lot of energy. \u00a0On top of that, I’ve been foiling the last week so I thought my timing might be off. \u00a0 \u00a0![\"\"](\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/IMG_0228-600x400.jpeg\")
<\/p>\n
BUT, I teach my students “you should be mentally and physically ready for anything at any given day.” \u00a0So no excuses for me.<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/IMG_0252-600x399.jpg\")
<\/p>\n
OMG, trying to keep calm when my adrenaline so high was hard to do. \u00a0This was my first wave and right when I stood up, everything felt right. \u00a0The crowd was thin early in the morning but when the sun came up, there were about a 100 hungry surfers. \u00a0Angry ones too. \u00a0Haha. \u00a0I surfed for over 2 hours and caught 5 waves. \u00a0Not bad for the oldest guy out. \u00a0Haha.<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/IMG_0420-600x400.jpeg\")
<\/p>\n
These are the kind of days I’m just grateful for not getting hurt. \u00a0And these are the kind of days that make we appreciate surfing and Mother Nature.<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/IMG_0393-600x450.jpg\")
<\/p>\n
The drive back home was amazing. \u00a0Singing Christmas songs and smiling all the way…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
I woke up this morning and felt like a challenge. \u00a0So I drive up to the North shore thinking it was 4-6′ but when I heard the ocean roaring, it was way bigger than that. \u00a0In the dark, I saw some solid 8′ sets at Pipeline and some 10′ sets at Off The Wall. To […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-124413","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirbyblog"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/124413","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=124413"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/124413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":124424,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/124413\/revisions\/124424"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=124413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=124413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=124413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}