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Wow, the surf report has been reporting 3-5′ for the past few days and today it finally showed up. \u00a0The waves and conditions were perfect!<\/p>\n
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Kitsukawa-san has only been surfing for 1 year. \u00a0I was really impressed on how fast he learned. \u00a0Today he wanted to turn so that’s what we focused on.<\/p>\n
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It was cool to see Kitsukawa-san turning for the first time in his life! \u00a0I was so stoked watching him enjoying the moment. \u00a0Shortly after this, he was back on an airplane to Japan. \u00a0Surf and travel. \u00a0Smart man!<\/p>\n
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I finally got to look at some photos Matsu took. \u00a0Here is Yo-yo’s as big as it gets. \u00a0So big that nobody was out for days.<\/p>\n
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I paddled out just for the challenge. \u00a0I told myself that even though I don’t catch a wave, it’s ok. \u00a0I surfed there 30 years ago and just wanted to feel what 30 years later felt like. \u00a0I’m older and wiser now, but the risks are still high. \u00a0Back then if you got hurt, you could die alone. \u00a0I never use to think about it, but now I do. \u00a0So having my friends on the beach was comforting. \u00a0I caught 4 waves and thought that was enough for the day. \u00a0Then the nightmare of coming in and walking over the reef. \u00a0It’s called “The Rockdance.”<\/p>\n
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When you’re traveling with some of the most important people in your life, you have time to reflect on things. \u00a0There were a few moments I had tears in my eyes when I got back to my room. \u00a0The feeling of being in such a remote area with people you’ve been traveling with for decades, and still do gets emotional. \u00a0I am literally here because of these people, and now we are here together. \u00a0Very emotional at times. \u00a0These are the times you will never ever forget…<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Wow, the surf report has been reporting 3-5′ for the past few days and today it finally showed up. \u00a0The waves and conditions were perfect! Kitsukawa-san has only been surfing for 1 year. \u00a0I was really impressed on how fast he learned. \u00a0Today he wanted to turn so that’s what we focused on. It was […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-128954","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirbyblog"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/128954","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=128954"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/128954\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":128965,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/128954\/revisions\/128965"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=128954"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=128954"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=128954"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}