{"id":129881,"date":"2023-12-08T05:35:58","date_gmt":"2023-12-07T20:35:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=129881"},"modified":"2023-12-07T14:54:25","modified_gmt":"2023-12-07T05:54:25","slug":"backdoor-risky-business","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=129881","title":{"rendered":"Backdoor Risky Business"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>The waves at Backdoor has been really good recently. \u00a0I was watching it over and over getting ready to motivate myself to go out there to get one. \u00a0Then the news about last years Pipeline Masters finalist Joao Chinca getting rescued came in.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-129883\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/ref-800x800.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/ref-800x800.png 800w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/ref-1024x1024.png 1024w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/ref-150x150.png 150w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/ref-768x768.png 768w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/ref-696x696.png 696w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/ref-1068x1068.png 1068w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/ref-420x420.png 420w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/ref.png 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>This is the wave Joao got hurt on. \u00a0These wipeouts look more dangerous than it actually is. \u00a0Surfers do this on purpose when they feel like they won&#8217;t make the drop. \u00a0It&#8217;s planned and well rehearsed. \u00a0You jump from the top feet down, then calculate the way you penetrate the ocean by the ocean depth. \u00a0At deep spots like Haleiwa or Sunset, you can penetrate deep. \u00a0BUT, at Backdoor where it&#8217;s very shallow, you want to penetrate just enough to get you under the wave without jackknifing into the reef. \u00a0This is actually relatively safe. \u00a0BUT, Joao somehow got knocked unconscious and got held down for a few waves. \u00a0Maybe hitting his head from the reef, or probably from his board? \u00a0Lucky everybody watches out for each other out there so the boys jumped in when they didn&#8217;t see him resurface.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-129882\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/feff-800x503.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"503\" srcset=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/feff-800x503.jpeg 800w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/feff-768x483.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/feff-696x438.jpeg 696w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/feff-668x420.jpeg 668w, https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/feff.jpeg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>When they grabbed him, the was unconscious and turned blue. \u00a0Thankfully the lifeguards brought him back to life on the beach and he will live to get barreled again. \u00a0I had chicken skin when I saw this video because that&#8217;s my nephew Seth Moniz helping out. \u00a0All surfers that surf Backdoor know that any wave out there could be the last wave of your life. \u00a0The risks are there, but the reward always win. \u00a0Hoping Joao a speedy recover before the Pipeline Masters coming up.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The waves at Backdoor has been really good recently. \u00a0I was watching it over and over getting ready to motivate myself to go out there to get one. \u00a0Then the news about last years Pipeline Masters finalist Joao Chinca getting rescued came in. This is the wave Joao got hurt on. \u00a0These wipeouts look more [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-129881","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirbyblog"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/129881","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=129881"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/129881\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":129884,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/129881\/revisions\/129884"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=129881"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=129881"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=129881"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}