{"id":132558,"date":"2024-06-11T13:34:55","date_gmt":"2024-06-11T04:34:55","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=132558"},"modified":"2024-06-11T13:34:55","modified_gmt":"2024-06-11T04:34:55","slug":"chasing-south-monsters","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=132558","title":{"rendered":"Chasing South Monsters"},"content":{"rendered":"

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This lucky man and I paddled out to maxing out Rockpiles this morning. \u00a0Of course nobody was out because it was too big and dangerous, but we somehow made it to the lineup dodging the double overhead sets. \u00a0I saw the biggest set and yelled to him, “GO!” \u00a0He turned around and started paddling for the wave. \u00a0He took off in the perfect place, turned down the wave, and rode the biggest and best wave of his life! \u00a0And just like that, today became a special day. \u00a0A day when you paddle out scared with no expectations, and paddle in like you won the lottery. \u00a0All it took was one special wave to change a life. \u00a0I had to shake the mans hand after witnessing that!<\/p>\n

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Paddling out in big surf is the easy part. \u00a0Finding and catching the rare perfect wave is the hard part. \u00a0On this particular Rockpile bomb, I barely made the drop and raced down the line as fast as I could. \u00a0It feels like you’re running away from a monster that is right behind chasing you. \u00a0You better focus!<\/p>\n

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Round 2: \u00a0Big and epic Big Rights. \u00a0When it gets this big and barreling, it for experts only. \u00a0You have to know how to duck dive under huge barreling waves, you have to know how to get out of peoples way, and you have to know locals out there or you won’t get waves. \u00a0The lineup is small, and the barrels are big.<\/p>\n

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I surfed for 2 hours and got 5 big blue barrels.<\/p>\n

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I’ve traveled the world chasing barrels but it doesn’t get any better than finding them right in your backyard. \u00a0I love summer in Hawaii, especially this one!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

This lucky man and I paddled out to maxing out Rockpiles this morning. \u00a0Of course nobody was out because it was too big and dangerous, but we somehow made it to the lineup dodging the double overhead sets. \u00a0I saw the biggest set and yelled to him, “GO!” \u00a0He turned around and started paddling for […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-132558","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirbyblog"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/132558","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=132558"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/132558\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":132565,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/132558\/revisions\/132565"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=132558"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=132558"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=132558"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}