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Back in the 1990’s: \u00a0I would get a call from Tokura-san that a typhoon has formed off the coast of Japan so get ready. \u00a0No cell phones back then so it would be to my home land line. \u00a0 I would call my travel agent and get on a flight from Hawaii to Japan asap. \u00a0Getting picked up from the airport, jumping on ferries to outer islands, and diving for hours and hours. \u00a0We would arrive and the waves would be flat. \u00a0BUT, we all knew that the typhoon swells will be showing up soon. \u00a0There were no internet, cell phones, or surf reports back then. \u00a0We would go off local knowledge and mostly instinct. \u00a0Japan is a big country with lots of surf spots so finding surf is relatively easy. \u00a0The hard part if trying to figure out where would be the best spot on a given day. \u00a0We usually called it “The Day” which means we are at the best spot on the best day at the best time. \u00a0It was our job, and more important, it was our passion. \u00a0We were surfers that wanted the best of the best. \u00a0The crazy thing is we were always ended up at the best of the best.<\/p>\n
This particular day was on a special island. \u00a0Heavy rain a month before broke open the river forming an absolutely flawless cobblestone bank. \u00a0A super typhoon a hundred miles out to see sent glassy swell lines that once hit the bank, turned into a monster barreling wave machine. \u00a0It was 6-8′ Hawaiian scale, nobody out, and absolutely gorgeous weather. \u00a0It’s one of those days I still dream about…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Back in the 1990’s: \u00a0I would get a call from Tokura-san that a typhoon has formed off the coast of Japan so get ready. \u00a0No cell phones back then so it would be to my home land line. \u00a0 I would call my travel agent and get on a flight from Hawaii to Japan asap. […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-132582","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirbyblog"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/132582","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=132582"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/132582\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":132585,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/132582\/revisions\/132585"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=132582"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=132582"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=132582"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}