{"id":133153,"date":"2024-07-16T13:24:04","date_gmt":"2024-07-16T04:24:04","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=133153"},"modified":"2024-07-16T13:24:04","modified_gmt":"2024-07-16T04:24:04","slug":"tombstone-monday","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=133153","title":{"rendered":"Tombstone Monday"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Imagine it being the biggest day of the year. \u00a0The surf report is 15′ faces that will be peaking this morning. \u00a0I have my 2 brave surfers with me and decided to take them out to a spot neither of them have surfed before. \u00a0It is pitch dark and we’re walking on the reef getting ready to paddle out. \u00a0Out to where? \u00a0They had no idea.<\/p>\n

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We get out and it gets very interesting. \u00a0I wasn’t expecting this so I’m sure they weren’t either. \u00a0The waves were giant! \u00a0Solid 8′ Hawaiian scale so almost triple overhead. \u00a0I rode the wave previous to this one and when I pulled out, I saw the next one behind. \u00a0The Energizer Bunny throws her board as she barely made it over this wave. \u00a0Right to the inside of her was Nakahodo-san about to take the full force of the wave as it broke right in front of him. \u00a0I went under this wave and when I came up, I saw Nakahodo-san’s surfboard sticking up straight in the air. \u00a0That means he was at least 6′ deep underwater fighting for his life. \u00a0It was only after he surfaced I started laughing. \u00a0Haha.<\/p>\n

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There was only 1 other surfer out and she had the biggest board. \u00a0This was her second wave and the only reason I took out my camera was because her first wave was twice as big. \u00a0She was stoked when I sent her this photo after we got in. \u00a0This is like a historic day surfing the Third Reef Waikiki. \u00a0I’ve never seen it barreling this big in my life out there. \u00a0And nobody was out!!!<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Then this afternoon it was my private time. \u00a0Usually I take a nap but not when Big Right’s is calling me. \u00a0I surfed with my long time friend Jun Jo and took turns in some nice barrels. \u00a0A very long but thankful day that nobody got hurt and everyone when home safe. \u00a0I’m still super excited of this historic day on the South Shore!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Imagine it being the biggest day of the year. \u00a0The surf report is 15′ faces that will be peaking this morning. \u00a0I have my 2 brave surfers with me and decided to take them out to a spot neither of them have surfed before. \u00a0It is pitch dark and we’re walking on the reef getting […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-133153","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirbyblog"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/133153","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=133153"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/133153\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":133160,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/133153\/revisions\/133160"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=133153"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=133153"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=133153"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}