{"id":133542,"date":"2024-08-10T05:59:33","date_gmt":"2024-08-09T20:59:33","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=133542"},"modified":"2024-08-09T14:10:52","modified_gmt":"2024-08-09T05:10:52","slug":"dont-think-feel","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=133542","title":{"rendered":"DON’T THINK, FEEL…"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/p>\n

The last 5′ swell we had, we got really lucky to paddle out to a spot where there was just us. \u00a0The waves were way overhead and offshore. \u00a0The lesson for that day was to paddle with confidence, paddle hard, and make sure you catch the wave. \u00a0The reason is because if you miss a wave, there will be bigger waves behind. \u00a0And that’s the last place you want to be on a big day. \u00a0\"\"<\/p>\n

Staying low and focus on looking forward. \u00a0And when you’re riding the right size board, it’s pretty easy to succeed. \u00a0If you have the wrong board, you will fail. \u00a0So yes, board selection on the big days is very important.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

We practiced on the longboard for 5 days straight. \u00a0This is where the girls learned how to time the waves better. \u00a0And when you can time the waves better, you will surf better.\"\"<\/p>\n

Then you can start taking steps forward, look cool, and feel so excited. \"\"<\/p>\n

Now it’s time to walk to the nose. \u00a0That is coming really soon.\"\"<\/p>\n

Shiina-san gave me this sticker he designed. \u00a0It says “Don’t think, feel.” \u00a0I love it!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The last 5′ swell we had, we got really lucky to paddle out to a spot where there was just us. \u00a0The waves were way overhead and offshore. \u00a0The lesson for that day was to paddle with confidence, paddle hard, and make sure you catch the wave. \u00a0The reason is because if you miss a […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-133542","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirbyblog"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/133542","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=133542"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/133542\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":133550,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/133542\/revisions\/133550"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=133542"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=133542"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=133542"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}