{"id":135216,"date":"2024-11-26T09:01:25","date_gmt":"2024-11-26T00:01:25","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=135216"},"modified":"2024-11-26T09:01:25","modified_gmt":"2024-11-26T00:01:25","slug":"dangerous-72-man","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=135216","title":{"rendered":"Dangerous 72 Man"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/p>\n

I’ve surfed this spot a few times over the years. \u00a0I remembered it being a very easy take off on the outside breaking out towards the deep water. \u00a0BUT, the swell direction on this swell was different. \u00a0It was breaking straight in and over the shallow reef. \u00a0There was only one way in and one way out. \u00a0A heavy take off and you better pull out before you end up on the rocks. \u00a0\"\"<\/p>\n

Since we had a long drive to get there, I asked Kimura-san to just paddle out and watch. \u00a0Just good to get the exercise in. \u00a0I said don’t need to ride a wave, but just to go out and paddle around and watch. \u00a0So he he paddled out.\"\"<\/p>\n

Next thing you know it, I see him trying to catch waves. \u00a0NOOOO!!! \u00a0But Kimura-san doesn’t listen to me so I knew he was going to try anyway. \u00a0So I told him, “take off, bottom turn, and pull out of the wave immediately. \u00a0Don’t try to ride it for too long!!!” \u00a0\"\"<\/p>\n

I’m on the outside watching him take off on this wave. \u00a0Then I see him ride it way too long. \u00a0OMG!!! \u00a0I knew he was going straight for the reef. \u00a0And I knew it wasn’t going to be good. \u00a0I just didn’t know how serious it would be. \u00a0Ambulance? \u00a0Hospital? \u00a0\"\"<\/p>\n

He ended up bouncing over the sharp reef and his Dove Impact suit saved him from going to the hospital. \u00a0It kept him afloat, and it kept him from getting cut. \u00a0Just a small scratch on the shoulder and a ripped rash guard. \u00a0Kimura-san was lucky. \u00a0I told him he will never surf there again. \u00a0Well, not when I’m there because I was totally stressing out watching what happened. \u00a0Never again.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

I’ve surfed this spot a few times over the years. \u00a0I remembered it being a very easy take off on the outside breaking out towards the deep water. \u00a0BUT, the swell direction on this swell was different. \u00a0It was breaking straight in and over the shallow reef. \u00a0There was only one way in and one […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-135216","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirbyblog"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/135216","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=135216"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/135216\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":135222,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/135216\/revisions\/135222"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=135216"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=135216"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=135216"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}