{"id":135379,"date":"2024-12-08T05:47:28","date_gmt":"2024-12-07T20:47:28","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=135379"},"modified":"2024-12-07T12:01:09","modified_gmt":"2024-12-07T03:01:09","slug":"pipeline-in-the-1980s","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=135379","title":{"rendered":"Pipeline in the 1980’s"},"content":{"rendered":"

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After high school, I use to surf chest high Sandy Beach everyday. \u00a0That was my comfort zone and I was happy and content. \u00a0THEN, my sister started dating big waver pro surfer Tony Moniz. \u00a0Instantly, he took me to the North Shore every single day. \u00a0We would surf the biggest and craziest waves out there. \u00a0He didn’t care that I couldn’t hold my breath for more than 10 seconds. \u00a0He just took me out on the biggest days and say “GO!!!” \u00a0So yes, that’s how I learned how to surf big waves. \u00a0After heavy wipeouts, almost drowning multiple times, and getting stuck on the reef, nothing scared me anymore. \u00a0I remember some days we paddled out to 3rd reef Pipeline. \u00a0Tony would be taking off and getting barreled. \u00a0I would be getting smashed by wave after wave. \u00a0But I never gave up. \u00a0A year later, there was a Hawaiian Pro Contest at Pipeline in 1988 and Tony entered me into it. \u00a0 In my first round, the waves were 15′ and closing out. \u00a0I waited and waited in the impact zone and this crazy 2nd reef wave came straight to me. \u00a0I knew I had to go so I put my head down, paddled hard, and took off on this beauty. \u00a0I’ll never forget that barrel for the rest of my life!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

After high school, I use to surf chest high Sandy Beach everyday. \u00a0That was my comfort zone and I was happy and content. \u00a0THEN, my sister started dating big waver pro surfer Tony Moniz. \u00a0Instantly, he took me to the North Shore every single day. \u00a0We would surf the biggest and craziest waves out there. […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-135379","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","category-kirbyblog"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/135379","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=135379"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/135379\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":135381,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/135379\/revisions\/135381"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=135379"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=135379"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=135379"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}