{"id":136284,"date":"2025-02-10T14:32:41","date_gmt":"2025-02-10T05:32:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=136284"},"modified":"2025-02-10T14:33:15","modified_gmt":"2025-02-10T05:33:15","slug":"old-man-barrel","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=136284","title":{"rendered":"Old Man Session"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/p>\n

Last night I had a hard time sleeping. \u00a0I was thinking about surfing Backdoor, I was thinking about the brand new board is was going to ride, and I was thinking about the risks involved. \u00a0I waxed up my new board last night, woke up at 3am, and headed out to the North Shore. \u00a0It was pitch dark and nobody was there yet.\"\"<\/p>\n

I sat in the dark trying to figure out how big the waves were. \u00a0I thought it would be 4-6′ but it was bigger than that. \u00a0It was also very powerful and a very low tide. \u00a0Was my board big enough? \u00a0Was I ready? \u00a0No and Yes. \u00a0I paddled out in the dark anyway. \u00a0There was no turning back. \"\"<\/p>\n

A big set came, I paddled into it my hardest, then right when I stood up, a bodyboarder right in front of me panicked and I ended up hitting his fins as he tried to get out of my way. \u00a0It changed the direction of my takeoff and I had the worst wipeout in 20 years. \u00a0The wave slammed me to the bottom and my leg got stuck in one of the caves. \u00a0Luckily I pried it off before it broke and got free. \u00a0I forgot how dangerous Backdoor was. \u00a0Especially being a very low tide this morning. \u00a0\"\"<\/p>\n

After my long and dangerous session, I went to play with the kids at the natural tide pool at Ehukai Beach Park. \u00a0\"\"<\/p>\n

This is where it all starts. \u00a0The next generation Moniz groms bodyboarding in front of Pipeline…<\/p>\n

Guys out surfing Backdoor this morning: \u00a0John John and Nathan Florence, Isaiah and Joshua Moniz, and many other pros. \u00a0I was the oldest guy out again. \u00a0Haha.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Last night I had a hard time sleeping. \u00a0I was thinking about surfing Backdoor, I was thinking about the brand new board is was going to ride, and I was thinking about the risks involved. \u00a0I waxed up my new board last night, woke up at 3am, and headed out to the North Shore. \u00a0It […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-136284","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirbyblog"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/136284","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=136284"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/136284\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":136292,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/136284\/revisions\/136292"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=136284"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=136284"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=136284"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}