{"id":136295,"date":"2025-02-11T15:15:25","date_gmt":"2025-02-11T06:15:25","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=136295"},"modified":"2025-02-11T15:15:25","modified_gmt":"2025-02-11T06:15:25","slug":"butterflies-in-your-stomach","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=136295","title":{"rendered":"Butterflies in your Stomach"},"content":{"rendered":"

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When I arrive in the dark, you really can’t see the waves. \u00a0BUT, you can surely hear them. \u00a0This morning I knew it was going to be bigger than yesterday and by the sound of it, it wasn’t only bigger, it was stronger. \u00a0The loud “boom, boom, boom” will wake up those butterflies in your stomach. \u00a0The tide was very low again so bigger waves breaking over shallower reef equals very high risk surfing. \u00a0Yesterday I felt the feeling of being in the barrel, and today I wanted more. \u00a0It’s an addiction.<\/p>\n

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I teach my students that I want them taking off on the top of A-frame. \u00a0That means positioning yourself in the right place, paddling hard, and making sure you’re at the perfect take off spot to maximize the wave. \u00a0This is where you should be on every wave you ride. \u00a0This one felt like heaven!<\/p>\n

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When you think about it, pulling into a barrel like this over very shallow reef is terrifying. \u00a0But as I’m in the barrel, the last thing on my mind is fear. \u00a0This is where it feels like you’re in another world. \u00a0A world I want to live in forever!<\/p>\n

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Then the spit blows you out of the barrel over lots of foam and moving water. \u00a0It was a very wobbly exit, but completed.<\/p>\n

This was supposed to be my last wave but I got greedy and went back out again for another one. \u00a0Next one I got, I was in the barrel but couldn’t come out of it. \u00a0I was so bummed! \u00a0Then the wave right after mine, I’m watching John John Florence take off, pull into the barrel, and didn’t make it too. \u00a0That actually made me happy so I went in. \u00a0Haha.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

When I arrive in the dark, you really can’t see the waves. \u00a0BUT, you can surely hear them. \u00a0This morning I knew it was going to be bigger than yesterday and by the sound of it, it wasn’t only bigger, it was stronger. \u00a0The loud “boom, boom, boom” will wake up those butterflies in your […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-136295","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirbyblog"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/136295","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=136295"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/136295\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":136300,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/136295\/revisions\/136300"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=136295"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=136295"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=136295"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}