{"id":13765,"date":"2012-01-15T02:22:15","date_gmt":"2012-01-14T17:22:15","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=13765"},"modified":"2012-01-15T02:22:15","modified_gmt":"2012-01-14T17:22:15","slug":"022215","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=13765","title":{"rendered":"5 Star Surfing"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"DSCN0208.jpg\"<\/a> \"DSCN0196.jpg\"<\/a><\/div>\n

every traveling surfer knows that now is off season for waves in the
\nmaldives. every surfer knows that the waves are flat and the winds are
\nwrong at this time of the year. lots of my friends asked me why i was
\ncoming in the off season because the waves are flat over here. lots of
\nmy friends told me not to bother bringing my surfboard. to tell you the
\ntruth, i almost wasn’t going to bring my boards because it’s so
\nexpensive to bring it here and take it back home. but i trusted my
\ninstinct and did what most people wouldn’t. i brought not just 1
\nsurfboard, i brought 2.
\nwe’ve been diving all day long and the waves have been really small, or
\nalmost flat. 3 days ago, i got to surf for the 1st time on this trip
\nand i was totally satisfied with that. then today, we move spots and
\noutside on the outer reef had big waves breaking. i ask the dive guide
\n“how’s the waves?’ he tells me “i’m not a surfer, but there is a surf
\nspot outside on that island.” i ask him which direction it is. he says
\n“south\/west.” i ask him what the winds are, he says “north\/east.” ok,
\nfor me, that’s like adding 1 plus 1. south\/west swell with north\/east
\nwinds means perfect offshore surf. i grab my board, jump in the dingy,
\nand head to somewhere i’ve never been before. as i got closer, i seen
\nthis perfect overhead left peel a 100 yards. my adrenaline went up, my
\nmind cleared, and all i wanted to do was surf! first wave, GOOD!.
\nsecond wave, BETTER! i did 7 full turns down the line, and rode that
\nwave a long way. i ended up surfing there for 1.5 hours by myself and
\neven got barreled. during the session, i felt like i got my surf soul
\nback. i knew there was a reason for this. being in the middle of
\nnowhere surfing a dream wave all by yourself is any surfers dream. i
\ncould have been back in hawaii getting at backdoor, but today’s session
\nwas one i will never forget. and the cool thing is, the waves are
\ngetting bigger!
\nyes, it’s off season here in the maldives. there are absolutely no
\nsurfers around. i haven’t been stoked on surfing in a long time. i was
\nscreaming to myself after each wave i rode. i put my hands in the air
\nlike i was kelly slater coming out of a 10 point ride at the pipe
\nmasters. i felt right in place. i felt so at ease. i felt so happy.
\ni realized that surfing is my life, the rest are details.
\n**oh, not to mention getting picked up my my private driver in the
\nwater, escorted back to our yacht, and had a 5 star lunch. if i’m not
\ndreaming, what the heck is going on here?<\/p>\n

<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

every traveling surfer knows that now is off season for waves in the maldives. every surfer knows that the waves are flat and the winds are wrong at this time of the year. lots of my friends asked me why i was coming in the off season because the waves are flat over here. lots […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-13765","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirby-blogs"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13765","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=13765"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13765\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=13765"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=13765"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=13765"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}