{"id":140477,"date":"2025-11-29T12:41:42","date_gmt":"2025-11-29T03:41:42","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=140477"},"modified":"2025-11-29T12:41:42","modified_gmt":"2025-11-29T03:41:42","slug":"no-2nd-round-drop-in","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=140477","title":{"rendered":"No 2nd Round Drop In"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\" Before I paddled out to Rocky Point, I had a plan. \u00a0Get out and catch as many waves as possible. \u00a0Sorry for the 2 guys I dropped in on. \u00a0I had to stick to my plan. \u00a0I thought I was surfing Bowls and forgot to look behind. \u00a0Haha. \u00a0\"\"<\/p>\n

I was so happy to see the coconut trees growing back at Haleiwa! \u00a0Last year they were all dead and were supposed to get cut down. \u00a0\"\"<\/p>\n

It’s dark, it’s early, and only 7 guys out. \u00a0I rode my 5’11 shortboard so it was a little challenging catching waves. \u00a0The current was super strong and the waves were very thick. \u00a0It’s times like this where you have to 100% commit yourself. \u00a0I’ll never pull back so I’m either going to succeed, or fail.\"\"<\/p>\n

It’s been a long time since I rode a powerful wave like this on my magic shortboard. \u00a0It’s fine at Bowls but it felt so small and unstable on the North shore. \u00a0But like I tell my students, “no excuses.” \u00a0Use it, feel it, and connect to it. \u00a0\"\"<\/p>\n

The waves were so good and I was planning to surf Backdoor after this. \u00a0I rode this last wave in to the shore, then right before I jumped off my board, all the water in the ocean disappeared. \u00a0I was rolling on the dry reef on my stomach. \u00a0The ocean pulling me back as I was stuck and I saw the whole ocean coming back right for me. \u00a0Then I got smashed! \u00a0\"\"<\/p>\n

So no 2nd round of surfing, I think I had enough. \u00a0I would have been pushing my luck if I surfed Backdoor after this…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Before I paddled out to Rocky Point, I had a plan. \u00a0Get out and catch as many waves as possible. \u00a0Sorry for the 2 guys I dropped in on. \u00a0I had to stick to my plan. \u00a0I thought I was surfing Bowls and forgot to look behind. \u00a0Haha. \u00a0 I was so happy to see […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-140477","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirbyblog"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/140477","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=140477"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/140477\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":140485,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/140477\/revisions\/140485"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=140477"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=140477"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=140477"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}