{"id":140533,"date":"2025-12-05T05:24:17","date_gmt":"2025-12-04T20:24:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=140533"},"modified":"2025-12-04T13:48:03","modified_gmt":"2025-12-04T04:48:03","slug":"surf-addict-ride-or-die","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=140533","title":{"rendered":"Surf Addict: Ride or Die"},"content":{"rendered":"

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After surfing Backdoor for the past 37 years, some things never change. \u00a0There is a coconut tree on the beach were I align myself up to. \u00a0Then when I see a set coming, the first thing I do is make sure I’m right in line with the tree, then I wait for the wave to build up, then I paddle for it. \u00a0Backdoor is a reef break and all the good waves break on the exact same place. \u00a0I wouldn’t know what to do if someone cut that tree down. \u00a0Haha.<\/p>\n

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Sometimes you can get barreled right when you take off. \u00a0And sometimes you can get barreled after a slow timed bottom turn. \u00a0Either way, you’re going to get barreled out here.<\/p>\n

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And when you’re in the barrel, time stands still. \u00a0It’s like things are frozen in your own world, and you can hear a hollow sound of the ocean, and all you’re thinking is making it out. \u00a0If you make it, you feel glory. \u00a0If you don’t, you feel like you might die. \u00a0I have no idea why this is still so addicting. \u00a0But us surf addicts live for days like this. \u00a0 That has never changed for me since my first Backdoor barrel back in 1988…<\/p>\n

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 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

After surfing Backdoor for the past 37 years, some things never change. \u00a0There is a coconut tree on the beach were I align myself up to. \u00a0Then when I see a set coming, the first thing I do is make sure I’m right in line with the tree, then I wait for the wave to […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-140533","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","category-kirbyblog"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/140533","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=140533"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/140533\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":140543,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/140533\/revisions\/140543"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=140533"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=140533"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=140533"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}