{"id":1428,"date":"2009-03-05T14:56:21","date_gmt":"2009-03-05T05:56:21","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/go-naminori3.sakura.ne.jp\/kirbyfukunaga\/2009\/03\/05\/backdoor-dreaming\/"},"modified":"2009-03-05T14:56:21","modified_gmt":"2009-03-05T05:56:21","slug":"backdoor-dreaming","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=1428","title":{"rendered":"Backdoor Dreaming…."},"content":{"rendered":"

good evening. woke up to what i thought was going to be a shitty day for surf. but i was wrong. i pulled up to laniakea at 11am and the waves were going off!!! solid 5′ with bigger sets breaking all the way across. i paddled out the way your not supposed to on big north swells because you will get cleaned up. as i was going to jump in with my 6’0 and thin competition leash, this surfer dude came up to me and said “abunai”. i guess he thought i was japanese. so i said “daijyobu” which means “no worries mate.” he shook his head and walked away. as i jumped in, i knew he was watching me and wanted me to get caught by a big set. i timed it right and made it out untouched. i looked back to the beach to see if the guy was still there and was ready to give him a shaka sign. then there it was, a big 6′ set coming down on my head… shit… i didn’t want to snap my leash so i didn’t let go of my board. i held on and the wave shook me up like a rag doll. i came up a little dizzy and said, it’s time to surf…. i had such a good session with my small board. i felt like kelly slater… haha…
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\ni surfed at 11am. i ate this big lunch at 10:30am. on the way out, i stopped by my favorite local plate lunch restaurant and ordered my favorite liver\/bacon, chicken cutlet combo. it was so good….
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\nthen i went to the go-naminori house to pick up the girls to bring to town. we went to champa thai, then went to a bar to sing karaoke, then to a strip club, then danced all night long… haha.. just joking… we had a great talk in the car driving back from the north shore. yumie and yumi are helping me out with a book i’m writing. haha.. that’s a joke too… 2 cool girls….
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\nand last, since i haven’t gotten barreled for a long time, i’m going to stare at this photo for the next hour and dream. this backdoor day seemed like years ago…. i can’t wait to do it again…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

good evening. woke up to what i thought was going to be a shitty day for surf. but i was wrong. i pulled up to laniakea at 11am and the waves were going off!!! solid 5′ with bigger sets breaking all the way across. i paddled out the way your not supposed to on big […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[37],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-1428","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-go-naminori"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1428","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1428"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1428\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1428"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1428"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1428"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}