{"id":143570,"date":"2026-07-28T05:17:34","date_gmt":"2026-07-27T20:17:34","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=143570"},"modified":"2026-07-27T14:37:47","modified_gmt":"2026-07-27T05:37:47","slug":"this-is-surfing-this-is-life","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=143570","title":{"rendered":"This is surfing, this is life…"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/p>\n

Round 1: \u00a0I had a great time with this nice couple from Hokkaido. \u00a0They caught some really good waves. \u00a0During the session, I was watching Bowls from the inside and realized it was a lot bigger than expected. \u00a0The swell direction was a little different from the day before. \u00a0It was then I knew where I was going to go in the afternoon. And I knew it was going to be EPIC!\"\"<\/p>\n

The best way to get there is by boat. \u00a0I don’t like taking Mayuki out alone but sometimes you just have to do what you have to do. \u00a0I pull up from behind the wave and couldn’t believe how big it was. \u00a0I drop the anchor, wax my surfboard, and paddle to the lineup as fast as possible. \u00a0Then I see a big set approaching.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

I position myself and I only had one thing in my mind which was to GET BARRELED! \u00a0I’m on my smallest shortboard on purpose because it feels like part of my soul. \u00a0The takeoff is good, the angle is perfect, and everything else came natural. \u00a0A nice barrel followed by barrel after barrel. \u00a0It was the best session of the summer for me. \u00a0Sunburnt and hungry, I drove home the happiest man in the world. \u00a0On the days you least expect things, the ocean can fulfill your dreams. \u00a0This is surfing, this is life…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Round 1: \u00a0I had a great time with this nice couple from Hokkaido. \u00a0They caught some really good waves. \u00a0During the session, I was watching Bowls from the inside and realized it was a lot bigger than expected. \u00a0The swell direction was a little different from the day before. \u00a0It was then I knew where […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-143570","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","category-kirbyblog"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/143570","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=143570"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/143570\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":143575,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/143570\/revisions\/143575"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=143570"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=143570"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=143570"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}