{"id":2212,"date":"2009-09-07T05:18:51","date_gmt":"2009-09-06T20:18:51","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/go-naminori3.sakura.ne.jp\/kirbyfukunaga\/2009\/09\/07\/doctors-who-surf-2\/"},"modified":"2009-09-07T05:18:51","modified_gmt":"2009-09-06T20:18:51","slug":"doctors-who-surf-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=2212","title":{"rendered":"Doctors who Surf!!!"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>good morning.  wow, surf, surf, and surf.  i haven&#8217;t surfed so much in my life and i&#8217;m still hungry for barrels.  usually i&#8217;d be burnt out already but the waves are so fun that i can&#8217;t help but surf, surf, and surf&#8230;.  surfing 3 rounds a day and shooting 2 rounds everyday hasn&#8217;t made me that tired yet.  i think that last month must have charged up my batteries because i feel like i can go on forever.  check out the action from saturday and sunday&#8230;<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4158.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"427\" alt=\"\"><br \/>\nthis is TSSC shaper tsukurimichi-san yesterday going off the bottom.  tsukurimichi-san shaped me a magic 5&#8217;9 single fin that i forgot in shonan.  shit, i wish i had it with me because i want to try it out here&#8230;.<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4091.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"427\" alt=\"\"><br \/>\nthe little wild kairi got such a nice barrel.  i with i could show you the photo but it&#8217;s a keeper.  this was the take off and if you seen how big that barrel was for him, you would freak.  i asked him after if he was scared.  he said &#8220;no&#8221;.   not too many 10 year olds would have pulled into the barrel he pulled into&#8230;<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4104.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"427\" alt=\"\"><br \/>\nthe tube spit so hard that it sent the wild kairi in the air.  this is sequence #13.  sick tube kid&#8230;<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/20090906120527.jpeg\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" alt=\"\"><br \/>\nthis is my friend Dr. Sato-san.  sato-sensei is the owner and head doctor of a big hospital in shikoku.  not only is he a doctor, sato-sensei&#8217;s also a surfer.  i took him surfing one day in hawaii out at 6&#8242; haleiwa.  well, i actually forced him to paddle out.  the waves were huge and he somehow survived.  we had dinner the other night and were talking about that experience.  sato-sensei told me that he thought he was going to die that day.  i told him &#8220;dr. sato, don&#8217;t worry, your not going to die because i will pull you out and give you CPR&#8230;  haha&#8230;  he didn&#8217;t think that was too funny.  anyway, thank you for the wonderful dinner sato-sensei.  and that&#8217;s a cool t-shirt you have on&#8230;. [:?????\u001b$B!x\u001b(B???:]<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/20090906121309.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"427\" alt=\"\"><br \/>\nhow cool is it to be a doctor and a surfer?  shit, this guy must get all the chicks.  haha..  nice wave you got yesterday sato-sensei&#8230;.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>good morning. wow, surf, surf, and surf. i haven&#8217;t surfed so much in my life and i&#8217;m still hungry for barrels. usually i&#8217;d be burnt out already but the waves are so fun that i can&#8217;t help but surf, surf, and surf&#8230;. surfing 3 rounds a day and shooting 2 rounds everyday hasn&#8217;t made me [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[37],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-2212","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-go-naminori"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2212","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2212"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2212\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2212"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2212"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2212"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}