{"id":2506,"date":"2009-10-31T14:25:01","date_gmt":"2009-10-31T05:25:01","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/go-naminori3.sakura.ne.jp\/kirbyfukunaga\/2009\/10\/31\/my-annual-nervous-walk\/"},"modified":"2009-10-31T14:25:01","modified_gmt":"2009-10-31T05:25:01","slug":"my-annual-nervous-walk","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=2506","title":{"rendered":"My Annual Nervous Walk&#8230;."},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/Image114.jpeg\" width=\"360\" height=\"480\" alt=\"\"><br \/>\nfor the past 20 + years, i&#8217;ve been taking this walk down the path at off-the-wall in the beginning of every north shore season.  since today was my official start to the &#8217;09-10 season, i was kind of nervous walking down this path this morning.  surfing the north shore isn&#8217;t a joke.  the very best of surfers die here each year.  come february or march, i&#8217;ll be running down this trail heading straight for the water.  sometimes i don&#8217;t even check the waves.  but today, i took it slow.  i got there at 6:15 am, watched it carefully for 15 minutes, chose my 7&#8217;0 to be on the safe side, and walked to the waters edge slowly.  as i was paddling out, there were butterflies on my stomach.  but once i caught my first wave, it was back to normal.  i felt good being out in the most famous point in the world, Backdoor\/Pipeline&#8230;..<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/Image116.jpeg\" width=\"360\" height=\"480\" alt=\"\"><br \/>\nthe waves were 3-5&#8242; and not that perfect. you had to go looking for the good one today.  i surfed for 3.5 hours and caught only 7 waves.  3 of them barrels.  my sister them are staying at the billabong house right in front so she used my camera to take some photos&#8230;.<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4676_2.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"252\" alt=\"\"><br \/>\nthis is my second wave. and my first official barrel of the season!!!  after i made it out of this barrel, i was thinking to myself, &#8220;no where in the world feels better than getting barreled at backdoor.  i got so many good barrels in indonesia and japan this year but the feeling is different.  backdoor is the most heaviest wave breaking over knee high deep water, it&#8217;s also the hardest place in the world to catch a wave because of the locals and talent, and this is my home.&#8221;   after my long session, i jumped in my car, drove home, ate lunch, took a nap, and went to yoga.  my life is finally back to normal and i love it!!!  it&#8217;s been a while but tonight, i&#8217;m sleeping with a big smile on my face.  then tomorrow morning, i&#8217;m doing the same thing!!!  good night&#8230;.[:Zzz:]<br \/>\n**once again, thanks tammy for taking these photos.  tomorrow too??? haha&#8230;.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>for the past 20 + years, i&#8217;ve been taking this walk down the path at off-the-wall in the beginning of every north shore season. since today was my official start to the &#8217;09-10 season, i was kind of nervous walking down this path this morning. surfing the north shore isn&#8217;t a joke. the very best [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[37],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-2506","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-go-naminori"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2506","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2506"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2506\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2506"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2506"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2506"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}