{"id":26138,"date":"2012-11-06T13:22:37","date_gmt":"2012-11-06T04:22:37","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=26138"},"modified":"2012-11-06T13:22:37","modified_gmt":"2012-11-06T04:22:37","slug":"the-long-drive-home","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=26138","title":{"rendered":"The Long Drive Home"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>last night, i heard on the news that somebody was found underwater at sandy beach yesterday and is in critical condition.  i thought to myself, ah, just another tourist probably bodysurfing the shorebreak.  news like that happens a lot there.  then this morning, i go out there with maki-san, toda-san, and takami-san to surf, totally forgetting about the news.<br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?attachment_id=26139\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-26139\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/11\/photo-15.jpg\" alt=\"photo 1\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-26139\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nit couldn&#8217;t have been more beautiful there today.  sunny sky, white sand, and good surf.  a beach i grew up surfing and a beach i still love.  it was good to see all my friends driving through the parking lot.  then here comes my high school surfer friend walking up to me with a straight face.  not the usual smile.  &#8220;hey kirby, you heard about Dwayne?&#8221;  what?  what happened?  &#8220;he drowned yesterday right here at sandy&#8217;s and is in a coma at the hospital now.&#8221;  what!!!!  OMG!  Dwayne Scharsch is my old time surfing buddy.  we grew up surfing contests together.  i see Dwayne in the water every time i surf sandy&#8217;s or bowls.  in fact, i saw him everyday last week during the south swell and we were talking about the old days and how good the waves we were getting.  he was surfing sandy&#8217;s the day before and his surfboard hit him in the face, he knocked out, and was underwater for a long time until another surfer pulled him up from his leash.  he is in the hospital in critical condition in a coma.  i&#8217;m shocked.  i&#8217;m sad. and i&#8217;m lost for words.  Dwayne is such a good person and my heart goes out to his family.<br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?attachment_id=26140\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-26140\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/11\/photo-23.jpg\" alt=\"photo 2\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"alignnone size-medium alignnone size-medium wp-image-26140\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nand to think the waves were only 2&#8242; yesterday.  i keep telling people that it&#8217;s the small days when lots of people get hurt.  today the waves came up and i really didn&#8217;t want to surf out there because of Dwayne.  but something told me that i should go catch a wave for him.  and when i was out there, i&#8217;m sure he would want me to surf and to continue surfing.  we are all praying for you buddy.<br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?attachment_id=26141\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-26141\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/11\/photo-37.jpg\" alt=\"photo 3\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"alignnone size-medium alignnone size-medium alignnone size-medium wp-image-26141\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nusually when i drive home from sandy&#8217;s, i think about the beauty of hawaii.  think about how lucky we are to live here. but today, i was thinking something different.  i was thinking that it could have been anyone.  it could have been me.  it&#8217;s a freak accident and freak accidents happen to anyone.  it&#8217;s not like i can live my life more carefully, that i can&#8217;t.  i just have to live my life happier and appreciate every single breath i have.  when things like this happens to people close to you, it&#8217;s an eye opener.  please enjoy your life.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>last night, i heard on the news that somebody was found underwater at sandy beach yesterday and is in critical condition. i thought to myself, ah, just another tourist probably bodysurfing the shorebreak. news like that happens a lot there. then this morning, i go out there with maki-san, toda-san, and takami-san to surf, totally [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-26138","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirby-blogs"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/26138","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=26138"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/26138\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=26138"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=26138"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=26138"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}