{"id":28446,"date":"2013-01-15T13:40:14","date_gmt":"2013-01-15T04:40:14","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=28446"},"modified":"2013-01-15T13:40:14","modified_gmt":"2013-01-15T04:40:14","slug":"the-day-5","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=28446","title":{"rendered":"Never Turn Around"},"content":{"rendered":"

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\ni was sitting at home early in the morning watching the waves on the north shore. backdoor was only 3′ but growing every minute. should i stay or should i go??? i had to be back in town by 12 so i was undecided. then my sister sends me a photo she just took of seth getting a huge barrel. omg! i was in pain! and i still couldn’t go because of the traffic and because i had to be back in town. then at 8:30am, i get the text of my afternoon cancelation. i sped 100mph to the north shore weaving through traffic. i get up to the beach and the waves are 6′ and perfect. i paddle out, it was super packed, then guess what? the wind comes onshore and it starts pouring rain. the waves went from perfect to ugly in 5 minutes. then i paddle for a set, i miss it, turn around, and there is a 10′ a-frame double up wave about to break on my head. i throw my board, i get pounded to the reef, i finally make it back up, then here comes another one. and another one. i get pounded all the way to the beach hitting the reef 3x. forget it. i was bummed. took a shower and walked back to my car thinking “i just spent over $30 in gas, put things off that had to be done, and am going to drive home bummmed.” then as i put my board back in the car, i look up and see the rain stop, and so did the wind. i walk back to the beach to check just in case and guess what? the waves got perfect again. i paddle out and everybody most of the crowd was gone. 10 minutes later, here comes my huge backdoor barrel. i paddle, take off, bottom turn, and get the sickest barrel! then i went in and drove around the island back to town with the biggest smile on my face. i’m a very satisfied surfer right now. just another day in the office! <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

i was sitting at home early in the morning watching the waves on the north shore. backdoor was only 3′ but growing every minute. should i stay or should i go??? i had to be back in town by 12 so i was undecided. then my sister sends me a photo she just took of […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-28446","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirby-blogs"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/28446","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=28446"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/28446\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=28446"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=28446"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=28446"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}