{"id":3085,"date":"2010-03-21T14:23:40","date_gmt":"2010-03-21T05:23:40","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/go-naminori3.sakura.ne.jp\/kirbyfukunaga\/2010\/03\/21\/natural-high-2\/"},"modified":"2010-03-21T14:23:40","modified_gmt":"2010-03-21T05:23:40","slug":"natural-high-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=3085","title":{"rendered":"Natural High…."},"content":{"rendered":"

good evening. gosh, i’m burnt out!! totally fried from too much sun. i was in the water so much that i feel like a fish!! the south swell just can’t keep me out of the water!!!
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\nwaikiki was BIG too. some of the outer reefs were breaking. i haven’t seen it that big in a long time…
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\ni went surfing with takeda-san. i took him out to this semi secret spot called “seconds”. that’s where i learned how to surf so a lot of childhood memories came back. takeda-san caught some really good waves and we had a great time….
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\nthen this afternoon i went to look for somewhere to surf because the waves were pumping. i drove through ala moana park and couldn’t find parking. right as i was going to give up and leave the park, this guy was pulling out so i pulled in. and then i went out to big rights and pulled in all day!!
\ntoday was probably the best day i’ve ever surfed big rights. why? because after surfing there for over 25 years, i got my best barrel ever today. i paddled out and it wasn’t too crowded to begin with, then everybody started going in. why? because it was cold. i had my long sleeve top so i felt as warm as can be. then just as the crowd thinned out, the sets started coming in. solid 4′ sets and i was getting barreled on every one i caught. then after an hour of surfing, i told myself that i had enough so the next one i was going in. i waited for a set and here it came. a solid 5′ set rolling in and then backed off. it started to double up on the reef so i paddled deep behind the peak, took off, pulled in, and got the biggest and best barrel i’ve ever gotten out there. i was so stoked and came in. usually, i would get greedy and go back out and surf for 3 hours but not today. i have to pack for bali. haha…
\ni’m so surfed out that when i pull up to the beach in bali, i’ll probably sit under an umbrella and order a cold bintang. i deserve it.[:?????????:]
\nas i was driving home with the biggest smile on my face, i thought to myself “hey, i don’t think there is another happier surfer than me on this planet. and if there is, i’d like to sit down with him and have a drink[:?????????:]
\ni haven’t had a beer in a long time but i’ve been running on the coolest natural high ever. i feel happy, energetic, crazy, and talkative. the same way i feel when i drink beer. haha… please don’t anybody bring me down. i’ll hate you for that….<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

good evening. gosh, i’m burnt out!! totally fried from too much sun. i was in the water so much that i feel like a fish!! the south swell just can’t keep me out of the water!!! waikiki was BIG too. some of the outer reefs were breaking. i haven’t seen it that big in a […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[37],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-3085","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-go-naminori"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3085","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=3085"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3085\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=3085"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=3085"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=3085"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}