{"id":331,"date":"2008-01-27T20:36:54","date_gmt":"2008-01-27T11:36:54","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/go-naminori3.sakura.ne.jp\/kirbyfukunaga\/2008\/01\/27\/diamond-head-hardcore-surfing\/"},"modified":"2008-01-27T20:36:54","modified_gmt":"2008-01-27T11:36:54","slug":"diamond-head-hardcore-surfing","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=331","title":{"rendered":"Diamond Head Hardcore Surfing…."},"content":{"rendered":"

good evening. woke up early to fix some dings in my surfboards. sanding on a sunday morning ain’t the happiest thing to do. but that’s part of the job of being a surfer i guess. then i had to fix the brakes on my car. it started grinding metal to metal a few days ago. not good. changed the pads and now it’s good to go. i was done by 10am and was thinking what i should do because the waves on the north shore was junk. thought about staying home and working on my computer all day but after 10 minutes, something caught my eye…..
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\ni’ve been so freaking busy recently that i totally forgot i had a new board. it was standing in the corner of my house saying “try me”…. my new matchi shape 6’0….
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\ni’ve been riding FCS for over 10 years now. actually ever since FCS was invented. this year, i ordered glass on fins on all my boards because i wanted something different. and you know what? it’s a lot different. my new boards have much more drive and feel a lot more solid. and i don’t have to get confused changing fins all the time to get a board to work the way i want it too. so glass on fins is all i’m going to order in hawaii from now on. but for traveling, still can’t beat FCS….
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\nanyway, i waxed up my board and headed down to diamond head expecting it to be typhoon windy surf. and it was just that. not a single surfer in the water and only one wind surfer. when i got down to the beach, the only windsurfer came in and told me “your hardcore.” i looked at him and said “what?” he said “it’s victory at sea out there and even too windy for windsurfing.” i was thinking i had three things going for me. first, i got a brand new board that i wanted to ride. second, it’s sunday but there was nobody out in the ocean. and third, i have a warm wetsuit on. hardcore? yeah, i guess so. i was paddling out to light house and before i even got out there, this 4′ wave jacked up right in front of me so i took off and it was one of the best waves i’ve caught in a while. the swell was so east that the spot right in front of the shower had waves i’ve never seen before out there. i ended up just surfing there for an hour and caught like 20 perfect rights. all by myself… and the whole time, i was thinking to myself “hardcore”…. i had one of the best sessions i’ve had all winter, including north shore. my board worked super good, i was warm in my wetsuit, and i had the whole ocean to myself… when i finally went in, i saw this japanese surfer walking down the path with his surfboard. so i looked at him and said, “your hardcore.” i don’t know if he understood what i said but i hope he felt as good as i did today….
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\nwent to chinatown for lunch. gosh, everytime i go down there, i trip out on how many people are on the streets. feels like i’m really in china…..<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

good evening. woke up early to fix some dings in my surfboards. sanding on a sunday morning ain’t the happiest thing to do. but that’s part of the job of being a surfer i guess. then i had to fix the brakes on my car. it started grinding metal to metal a few days ago. […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[37],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-331","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-go-naminori"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/331","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=331"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/331\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=331"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=331"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=331"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}