{"id":3732,"date":"2010-08-31T12:07:01","date_gmt":"2010-08-31T03:07:01","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/go-naminori3.sakura.ne.jp\/kirbyfukunaga\/2010\/08\/31\/shikoku-memories\/"},"modified":"2010-08-31T12:07:01","modified_gmt":"2010-08-31T03:07:01","slug":"shikoku-memories","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=3732","title":{"rendered":"Shikoku Memories&#8230;."},"content":{"rendered":"<p>good afternoon,  well, the pacific ocean is starting to get angry.  i see a lot of activity out there and i think september will be the month to remember.  i&#8217;m glad i&#8217;ll be here and like i said before, this season isn&#8217;t over till i get barreled out of my mind.  i&#8217;m excited and i&#8217;m ready to go.  i better get ready for some long drives and sleepless nights.  stay tuned&#8230;<br \/>\n<a href=\"files\/20100830080855.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/20100830080855.jpg\" width=\"650\" height=\"488\" alt=\"\"><\/a><br \/>\nthis was 2 days ago at a pretty heavy localized secret river mouth in shikoku.  the first time i surfed there was 17 years ago when tokura-san, ishino-san, and i took a look at a river mouth that not too many people knew about.  i remember pulling up in total disbelief.  the waves were going off and nobody was out.  eeh?  i grabbed my 6&#8217;4, paddled out, and got barrel after barrel.  ishino-san was filming it and i have the footage right here on my computer.  gosh, it was a great memory.  since then, i haven&#8217;t surfed it like that but i&#8217;m not giving up hope.  i know that there will be another perfect day out there and i also know that i won&#8217;t be surfing it by myself.  those days are gone&#8230;.<br \/>\n<a href=\"files\/20100830081559.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/20100830081559.jpg\" width=\"650\" height=\"525\" alt=\"\"><\/a><br \/>\nhey, look what&#8217;s coming next week!  yes, a typhoon swell!  the good news is that i know that i&#8217;m waiting in the best possible place in japan.  and i ain&#8217;t moving&#8230;.<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/_K3_5861.jpg\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" alt=\"\"><br \/>\nbeing a great photographer is being able to make a surfer look better than he really is.  when i first saw this photo, i didn&#8217;t know who it was.  i&#8217;m serious.  thanks kinsan for making me look good.  did you know that&#8217;s the first snap i did since march?  in the mentawai&#8217;s, all i did was pull into barrels, then ever since, the waves in japan and hawaii haven&#8217;t been too good.  so going down the line full speed and being able to carve into a perfect open face felt pretty dam good.  and the added weight i gained in japan helps a lot in the spray.  haha&#8230;.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>good afternoon, well, the pacific ocean is starting to get angry. i see a lot of activity out there and i think september will be the month to remember. i&#8217;m glad i&#8217;ll be here and like i said before, this season isn&#8217;t over till i get barreled out of my mind. i&#8217;m excited and i&#8217;m [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[37],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-3732","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-go-naminori"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3732","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=3732"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3732\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=3732"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=3732"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=3732"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}