{"id":39597,"date":"2013-10-30T14:42:06","date_gmt":"2013-10-30T05:42:06","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=39597"},"modified":"2013-10-30T14:42:06","modified_gmt":"2013-10-30T05:42:06","slug":"high-risk-almost-no-return","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=39597","title":{"rendered":"High Risk, Almost NO Return!"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/photo-136.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/photo-136.jpg\" alt=\"photo 1\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39603\" \/><\/a><br \/>\ni leave my house before 5am.  it is pitch black but i knew the waves were going to be perfect.  i pull up in the dark, seen some solid 6&#8242; sets with so much energy.  i grab my 7&#8217;0, run down the beach.  i was excited.  i jump in, get taken down the beach like a river in the current.  i paddle my fastest to get out as i seen perfect waves breaking like a dream.  i get to the lineup, my heart is pumping, i&#8217;m freaking so happy.  then i see a set, i was in no frame of mind to catch my biggest wave of the season with my heart beating so fast.  so i talk to myself &#8220;hey, slow down, take deep breaths, remember to paddle hard, don&#8217;t look down, and just go for the barrel!&#8221;  then here is comes!  a perfect 6&#8242; thick backdoor wave.  i paddle, take off super steep with the nose of my board going straight down, i focus, bottom turn, pull into a big barrel, come out, and i tell myself &#8220;happy new year!&#8221;  the 2013-2014 north shore season has begun!!!!<br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/photo-235.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/photo-235.jpg\" alt=\"photo 2\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-39604\" \/><\/a><br \/>\ni ended up catching a couple really good barrels. it was uncrowded, only locals today.  good to see my friends all getting barreled.  i&#8217;m out by 8:30am.  sitting up at the billabong house waiting for the morning traffic back to town to cool off.  i jump into the truck, and i&#8217;m back in town before 10am.  as i&#8217;m driving home, i see surfers on the freeway heading to the north shore, i&#8217;m thinking to myself &#8220;you guys are too late.&#8221;  today was my first day off since i got back to hawaii on october 4th.  i didn&#8217;t know what to do as i had the afternoon off.  so i grab my mask, jump on my boat, and go dive for shells.  another wonderful tropical hawaiian day!<br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/2910-nAZRE2.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/2910-nAZRE2.jpg\" alt=\"2910-nAZRE2\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-39605\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nyesterday, pro surfer Carlos Burle set the new world record for biggest wave ever ridden in portugal.  this is crazy!<br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/2810-mayawipeout.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/2810-mayawipeout.jpg\" alt=\"2810-mayawipeout\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-39606\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nthen his partner Maya Gabeira suffered the biggest wipeout ever on this wave.<br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/i.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/i.jpeg\" alt=\"i\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39608\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nthe poor girl drowned!  she got pounded wave after wave and was finally unconscious.  they dragged her body to the beach and gave her CPR.  surfers saving surfers.  unreal!<br \/>\ncheck out the rescue.  high risk, high return.  or almost no return!<br \/>\n[youtube]http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=Yr_tpyrcs6Q[\/youtube]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>i leave my house before 5am. it is pitch black but i knew the waves were going to be perfect. i pull up in the dark, seen some solid 6&#8242; sets with so much energy. i grab my 7&#8217;0, run down the beach. i was excited. i jump in, get taken down the beach like [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-39597","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirby-blogs"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/39597","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=39597"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/39597\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=39597"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=39597"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=39597"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}