hello you all. first, i’d like to say i feel good to be alive. the first big pipeline\/backdoor swell of the year is always exciting for me. i’m not going to lie, but i was scared. even though i can hold my breath for a long time and dive deep, the butterflies don’t go away when you see a 30′ wave face coming down on your head. today was max pipe. 8-12′ and dangerous. the first swell is always the most dangerous because there is still too much sand on the beach creating shallow reef, and backwash on the wave. i paddled out with one thing on my mind. SURVIVE…
\ni like to go right so the good waves break a little more inside. you have to wait and be patient. and if a huge closeout set comes, say goodbye… today, 2 came. the first one i seen breaking out on the horizon. everybody started paddling to the channel but it broke right in front of us. i looked back and seen joel parkinson right behind me so i didn’t want to throw my board and dive under. it’s too dangerous. so i tried to duck dive it and the wave exploded like a bomb. for the 15 seconds or so i was under water, i could hear fireworks!! pack, pack, pack!!! i came up, looked inside, and seen like 30 guys swimming and broken pieces of surfboards all over the place. leashes were broken and a lot of surfboards were broken. i was lucky… then 30 minutes later, it all happened again. pack, pack, pack!!! broken boards all over the place. there were a lot of broken boards today but luckily nobody got hurt, well, at least for the 4 hours i was there…
\ni was out there for a long time trying to get a good right. finally, a big A-frame set came to me, i paddled, took off, bottom turned, pulled in, and got a standing barrel. i came out, and came in to the beach. it’s a great way to start the pipeline\/backdoor year for me.
\nnow the nerves are gone. tomorrow morning, i’m dawn patroling…. see you in the water…
\n**check out this video i shot from the water. it’s totally different from the beach…. enjoy…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
hello you all. first, i’d like to say i feel good to be alive. the first big pipeline\/backdoor swell of the year is always exciting for me. i’m not going to lie, but i was scared. even though i can hold my breath for a long time and dive deep, the butterflies don’t go away […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[37],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-4205","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-go-naminori"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4205","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=4205"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4205\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=4205"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=4205"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=4205"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}