![](\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/m11120110411055552.jpg\")
\non my last day in hawaii, i jumped in at bowls to get just one wave
\nbefore i got on my flight to japan. i knew that it would be a while
\nthat i couldn’t go into the ocean. in fact, i knew it was going to be
\nthe first time in my life being out of the ocean for that long.
\nanyway, i caught one wave and paddled in. when i got to the beach, i
\nseen a local surfer friend and asked him, “how was your surf?” he
\ntold me, “oh, the waves were small, the conditions were junk, and i
\nshouldn’t have even come out.” i looked at him and kind of got sick
\nto my stomach. that was just the worst thing you can say at a time
\nlike this. i turned and walked away without saying anything. it’s
\nbeen bothering me since. what i should have said was “hey, you should
\nappreciate the ocean more. you shouldn’t be complaining about the
\nwaves. surfing supposed to be fun. you just took all the fun out of
\nit. there are people in japan that would do anything to surf a small
\njunk wave right now, including me.” i’ve only been out of the water
\nfor 5 days and i can’t wait till the next time i can surf….
\nthe photo above is a wave in ishinomaki 2 days ago. is it safe? we
\ndon’t know and nobody knows when they will be able to return to the
\nocean. that’s pretty sad…. but just walking to the oceans edge
\nthat day revived me. it made me realize that there will be a day were
\nwe can all surf up here again. and when that day comes, i want to be
\na part of it.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"