{"id":52324,"date":"2015-01-14T14:31:15","date_gmt":"2015-01-14T05:31:15","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=52324"},"modified":"2015-01-14T14:31:15","modified_gmt":"2015-01-14T05:31:15","slug":"surfing-haleiwa-zero-to-thirty","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=52324","title":{"rendered":"Surfing Haleiwa: Zero to Thirty"},"content":{"rendered":"

opps, forgot to post this 2 days ago….
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\ni set my alarm for 4:30am but end up waking up at 4am. just so excited because there is a high surf advisory, and the buoy jumped up a lot late last night so i knew the waves were going to be big. big, but crowded because it’s a weekend. i get on the freeway for the 50 minute drive.
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\ni get to haleiwa and it was pitch dark. not a single soul or car there. i think i got there to early. haha. i park the car and look at the waves. i couldn’t see anything but i could hear the thundering of the waves. it sounded 15′ hawaiian or 30′ faces. i started getting butterflies in my stomach.
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\ni came this early so i should paddle out this early. i see the moon shining on the ocean so i grab my board and paddle out in pure darkness. to tell you the truth, i was a little scared, but at the same time, more excited than anything. the adrenaline flowing thinking about the huge waves, strong current, and big tiger sharks. i get to the outside, see a big wall building as the moonlight drew a line on its face, i turn around, paddle, take off, and rode my first ever wave in pitch dark haleiwa. i knew it was big but couldn’t actually see how big it was. then i paddle back out and a huge 10′ freak set breaks on my head. that was my cup of coffee. now i was really awake! rode 4 waves all alone hoping somebody would paddle out. then i see Hayato and i don’t think i ever felt happier to see him. haha. 6-8′ solid haleiwa with bigger freak sets. we caught so many good waves and had a dream north shore morning session!
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\nthen i came in and talked story with the boys. it felt like a long day and was getting late, but it was still 8:50am. happy local haleiwa surfers with a great start to a great day.
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\nthen as i was leaving, there wasn’t any parking left. packed with surfers from all over the world. i forgot that the north shore is the mecca of surfing. i’m glad i got up early, or should i say, i’m glad i got up the earliest.
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\nthen the drive home is always happy. just smiling to myself and thinking how lucky i am. it’s still 10am and i have a full day ahead.
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\ngot my camera and took some photos. it went from zero to 30 in 2 hours.
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\nthen people started dropping in on each other.
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\nagain and again. there is only supposed to be one person per wave. the guy riding in the front has very very bad surfing manners.
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\nyes, the waves were perfect if you have the wave all alone. but if some guy drops in on you, it’s not so perfect anymore. it got so crazy that i had to put my camera away and leave.
\n\"IMG_1125<\/a>
\nthen i see a huge whale jump and luckily got the photo.
\nif you ask me how i feel now, i feel great. i had one of the best surf sessions of my life at haleiwa. big huge waves making it feel so good doing carves on. it was like a canvas for a painter. i can’t wait to do it again. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

opps, forgot to post this 2 days ago…. i set my alarm for 4:30am but end up waking up at 4am. just so excited because there is a high surf advisory, and the buoy jumped up a lot late last night so i knew the waves were going to be big. big, but crowded because […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-52324","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirby-blogs"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/52324","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=52324"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/52324\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=52324"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=52324"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=52324"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}