{"id":5450,"date":"2011-05-05T14:24:17","date_gmt":"2011-05-05T05:24:17","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=5450"},"modified":"2011-05-05T14:24:17","modified_gmt":"2011-05-05T05:24:17","slug":"142417","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=5450","title":{"rendered":"Surfing is my LIFE!"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"IMG_5731-2.jpg\"<\/a><\/div>\n

it seems like years that i haven’t surfed. i left hawaii on april 3rd
\nand this was one of the last waves i rode in. for me, surfing has a
\ndifferent meaning now. i don’t care how big or small the waves are, i
\ndon’t care if i’m on a long board or a short board, surfing is fun no
\nmatter what. just to be able to go in the ocean and ride a wave
\nexcites me. this has been the longest time i haven’t surfed since i
\nstarted surfing. i feel like a kid again. i feel like i can’t wait.
\nfrom the airport, i’m going straight home, grabbing the first board i
\nsee, and jumping into the ocean. i forgot that feeling but i’m sure
\nit’s going to feel so dam good. surfing is my life. i need the
\nocean. i stayed away from surfing in japan for 2 reasons. one is
\njust out of respect for the surfers that died in the tsunami, and the
\nother was to respect the local surfers that couldn’t surf, or can’t
\nsurf for a long time. one month wasn’t too much for me to sacrifice.
\ni still have in my mind what my surfer friend Azumi-san from tohoku
\ntold me “kirby, we surfers are STRONG!” that has kept me going and
\nwill keep me going forever. i’m looking forward to the day we can all
\nsurf together again. i’m looking for the day when everything gets
\nback to normal. and i’m looking for the day where we go surf, come in
\nand drink a few beers, and talk story about the past.
\nmy last wave i rode in hawaii was dedicated to the surfers that passed
\naway.
\nmy first wave i ride tomorrow will be dedicated to the tohoku
\nsurfers. WE SHALL ALL SURF TOGETHER AGAIN! i’m with you all the way…<\/p>\n

<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

it seems like years that i haven’t surfed. i left hawaii on april 3rd and this was one of the last waves i rode in. for me, surfing has a different meaning now. i don’t care how big or small the waves are, i don’t care if i’m on a long board or a short […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-5450","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirby-blogs"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5450","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=5450"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5450\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=5450"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=5450"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=5450"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}